Bitesize – Drilling 101

Bitesize – Drilling 101

by | Feb 2, 2025

Friday 2 May

2pm – 4pm

Book this Bitesize DIY Drilling Course

Learn to use a Drill

Conquer your fear of using a drill in this Bitesize introduction to Cordless Drills & impact Drivers. Discover just how easy it is to use a drill safely and confidently.

What You’ll Learn:

  • You’ll learn how to choose the right drill bit,
  • how to drill with control and get successful results every time.
  • Most importantly, we’ll help you feel confident about knowing where it is safe to drill, and what to do, if things don’t go according to plan.
  • AND you’ll learn about choosing and using the right fixings for your projects.

This course will really get you started on your DIY journey

This is part of our short “Bitesize-DIY” courses for those who don’t have time for a half-day course. They are designed to help you get started on your DIY journey, and build your DIY Confidence to start working through that DIY Jobs list at home

Book this Bitesize-DIY Drilling Course

4 Things you should do when you move into a New Home

4 Things you should do when you move into a New Home

by | Oct 27, 2024 | DIY Advice, DIY Electrical Advice, DIY Plumbing Advice, Practical DIY Advice

4 Things you should do when you move into a New Home

A Little Housekeeping:

The Essential Stuff You Should Know

This may not be what you first think of when you move into a new home, but it could save you alot of money. Think of this as a “getting to know your home” exercise.

These are essental checks thatyou should make in your New Home.  They could save you money and might even save your life. They will definitely stop a plumber from giving you that pitying look when you’re not sure where the water turns off.

Step 1: Stick the Kettle on

We all know nothing productive happens without a cuppa first. So, brew up and let’s crack on.

Step 2: Get Familiar with your Electricity Supply

You might think you know where the Consumer Unit (fuse box, for us mere mortals) is, but let’s be sure, shall we? Now, ask yourself these important questions:

Can I turn it off quickly if I need to?

Go on, try switching it off and back on again. If it’s buried at the back of a cupboard, do yourself a favour and keep the path clear – no one wants to dig through old paint cans or a mountain of camping gear in an emergency. Also, maybe avoid storing anything flammable in there? Just a thought.

Is it properly labelled?

Can you clearly tell which switch controls what, or does it feel more like a raffle? If it’s the latter, sorting that out should be a priority. If you’re not sure how to do this, check out our post on Consumer Units

Do you have an RCD?

If you’ve no idea what that is, have a look at Electrical Safety First, who explain what they are, and why they are an extremely good thing to have. It’s important.

If you do have one, test it! Press the “T” or “Test” Button and make sure it’s still doing its job. A little maintenance never hurts.

What type of Consumer Unit do you have?

This probably seems a bit of strange question, but its good to know the answer. You may have listened to your Solicitor’s advice and had an electrical survey carried out as part of the buying process. If you did, you should know a bit more about this, and should have a certificate to refer to. If you’re not sure what the certificate actually tells you, go back to the electrician who carried out the inspection for you. They can explain. Failing that, you can always contact us, and we can explain it to you. 

If you didn’t have an electrical inspection, check out our post on Consumer Units – Know your Stuff. There’s a bit of useful information there, explaining what you’e looking. 

Look for a Smoke & Heat Detectors

Hopefully your new Home has Smoke and Heat Detectors installed. If they do, please give them a quick Test, by pressing the TEST button. Check the Expiry date while you’re there.

If you can’t find any Smoke/Heat Detectors, or they are past their expiry date, please make getting new ones installed a priority.

Check out our post on Smoke Detector Safety, if you need more information

And lastly……..Take a Meter Reading

You don’t want to be paying for the last occupants’ Electricity, so take a Meter reading and submit it to your supplier. Ideally, take a photo of the reading, so that you have a Time & Date Stamp to refer back to.

Step 3: Discover where your Water Supply turns off

You’d be surprised how many people have no clue how to turn off their water. In fact, a lot of people who come on our DIY courses haven’t a clue either. I get it – it’s not something you think about until water’s gushing from somewhere it really shouldn’t be. But trust me, you don’t want to be on a frantic treasure hunt while the insurance claim’s ticking up.

1. Start Outside – Look for the Pavement cover

You’ll likely find a small cover near your front gate – that’s where the external stopcock hides. If you live in a flat, identifying which one’s yours can be a bit of a guessing game. Turning them off one by one works, but it might lead to some awkward neighbourly encounters (especially if they’re mid-shower).

It should look something like this. It might even have “Water” written on it:

Old Style External Stop Tap

Old Style Metal Cover

Use a Flathead Screwdriver to flip the Top up

Modern Plastic Cover

Use a Flathead Screwdriver to flip the Cover up

Turn-style External Stop Tap Cover

Annoying "Turn" Cover

Don’t be fooled. This Cover turns anti-clockwise to open. Badly thought-out design, which isn’t installed any longer. Try twisting it, it might come up. If not contact your Water Supplier and get them to replace it.

External Stop Cover Stuck Down

Metal Cover Stuck Down

Not uncommon if the Pavement has been resurfaced. Get it unstuck now, before you have an emergency, and can’t get the cover up.

Take a Meter Reading

If you find it, and it has a meter, take a meter reading. Again, I would take a photo, just for posterity.

Its also worth double-checking that it doesn’t keep running when you’ve turned the supply off. If it does, then you may be paying for someone else’s supply. Rare, but not impossible

2. Check Indoors

The usual suspects are under the kitchen sink or in a utility room, but I’ve come across them in all sorts of weird places – under floorboards, hidden in random cupboards. Start with the obvious and work your way to the downright bizarre.

Check out our other post on Finding Your Stop Tap

3. Still Can’t Find It?

Ask your new neighbours – they might have the same setup and could save you some time. If that doesn’t work, contact your water supplier – they might have a record of it. If you’re still out of luck, put it on your to-do list and get a plumber involved. They can install one in a more sensible spot.

Step 4: Gas or Oil - Find the OFF Switch

Mains Gas

Your gas meter will likely be near the front of the house, possibly in a little box outside. Make sure you can turn it off without too much faff. If it’s locked up, get yourself a meter box key – they’re cheap as chips at your local hardware store.

LPG or Oil

These tanks aren’t exactly discreet – you’ve probably tripped over them a few times already. Just double-check you know where the shut-off valve is, and maybe have a quick peek at security while you’re at it – oil theft’s a thing in the countryside.

Look for a Carbon Monoxide Detector

If you have a Gas or solid-fuel Boiler, or a multi-fuel stove, you also need to have a Carbon-Monoxide Detector.

If you can’t find one in your new home, please pop down to the nearest DIY/Hardware store/Supermarket & buy one NOW.

You may have no idea when the last service was carried out on these appliances. 

You don’t want your first night in your new home to be your last. I know that sounds dramatic, but Carbon Monoxide is invisible. It doesn’t smell, and it can kill you very quickly. 

Give yourself a Round of Applause

You’ve just ticked off three essential checks that most people ignore until disaster strikes. Sure, dealing with a crisis is a crash course in home maintenance, but wouldn’t you rather be prepared than panicked?

If you’re renting, your landlord really should have told you all this. If they didn’t, maybe give them a gentle nudge – it’s in their best interests too, after all!

Consumer Units. What you need to know.

Consumer Units. What you need to know.

by | Aug 24, 2024 | DIY Advice, DIY Electrical Advice, Practical DIY Advice

Consumer Units. What you need to know.

What is a Consumer Unit?

You might hear a Consumer Unit called different things: a Distribution Board, a Fuse Box—whatever. In the trade, it’s mostly called a Consumer Unit, or just CU for short, so let’s stick with that to keep it simple.

I’ll try not to bore you to sleep here, because this stuff matters, but I get it—electrics aren’t exactly thrilling.

No matter what you call it, a CU is what distributes electricity around your home. At its core, a CU should have a Main Switch, which lets you shut everything off if needed. You’ll also find various fuses or MCBs (Miniature Circuit Breakers) that control each circuit in your home.

If you’re lucky (and lots of people are these days), you might also have an RCD. If you’ve got two, great. If each circuit has its own, you’ve hit the jackpot.

Consumer Units come in all sorts of shapes, sizes, and safety levels. We’ll run through some of them below.

Keep reading…

1. Consumer Unit with Ceramic Rewireable Fuses

Consumer Unit with Individual RCBOs

These are old-school and, honestly, look pretty cool (if you’re into that sort of thing). But they belong in a museum, not in your home. If you have one, it’s a good sign that you haven’t had certified electrical work done in ages, so call an electrician.

What it does:

This CU protects against circuit overloads—the fuse wire inside will break if there’s too much demand.

What it doesn’t do:

It won’t protect you from getting shocked or seriously hurt if there’s an earth fault.

What’s an Earth Fault?

It’s when an electrical current tries to escape to the ground (Earth). It is often caused by cutting a cable (e.g. by drilling into it) or a sudden appliance fault.

2. Consumer Unit with Rewireable Fuses

Consumer Unit with Individual RCBOs

These are still fairly common and do the basics.

What it does:

It stops you from overloading circuits by tripping a fuse. You can reset it by pressing a button or flipping a switch—way easier than the older CUs.

What it doesn’t do:

Like the older ones, it won’t protect against electrocution from an earth fault. If you’ve got one, you might need an upgrade if you’re getting electrical work done, since newer regulations prioritise safety and require RCDs.

What is an RCD?

An RCD (Residual Current Device) is a nifty safety gadget that trips when it detects an earth fault. Potentially it will save your life.

At its most basic level, it constantly monitors the current in your house. If it detects an imbalance, it assumes that the current has gone into something it shouldn’t have  – you. It  should trip within milliseconds. This will save your life.

3. Consumer Unit with an RCD as Main Switch

Consumer Unit with Individual RCBOs

This setup has an RCD that acts as the main switch. It’s better than nothing, but if there’s a fault on any circuit, the whole thing shuts down. Not ideal if you’re halfway through cooking dinner.

What it does:

It gives you some protection against earth faults, which is a step up from the older units.

4. Consumer Unit with Two/Dual RCDs

Consumer Unit with Individual RCBOs

For a while, this was the go-to upgrade. These CUs usually have a plastic casing (newer ones are metal for better fire protection) and split your circuits into two groups, each with its own RCD.

What it does:
If one circuit trips an RCD, only half your house goes down. The other RCD keeps things running, which is more convenient but still a bit of a hassle.

You can find these CUs sold cheap in DIY stores because they don’t meet current regulations any more. Don’t be tempted—it’s not a bargain.

And you shouldn’t even be thinking abut carrying out that kind of electrical work anyway. 

5. Consumer Unit with Individual RCBOs

Consumer Unit with Individual RCBOs

This is what electricians install nowadays to meet the latest safety standards.

What it does:

This setup has a metal casing and a Main Switch, with each circuit controlled by its own RCBO (a combined fuse and RCD). If a fault occurs, only the affected circuit is shut down, so the rest of your home stays powered. It also likely includes a Surge Protection Device (SPD) to shield sensitive electronics like TVs and computers.

It’s more expensive but offers way better protection and convenience, especially in older homes where wiring can be dodgy.

Labelling

You’ll notice that labelling on CUs can be hit or miss. It’s really handy to know which fuse or RCBO controls which circuit, especially in an emergency.

If your CU isn’t well labelled, you can fix that yourself in about an hour. Grab some clean labels and a fine-tip pen. Go through each MCB one by one—switch it off and see what stops working. Jot down what each circuit controls and label accordingly.

Keep a record of this info near the CU; it could save you a lot of hassle (or even your life) later.
Plus, it’ll make things easier for any electrician working in your home.

If you have issues with your RCD not resetting after it has tripped, check out our handy post: Help, I have no Power

Electrical Safe Zones

Electrical Safe Zones

by | Aug 20, 2024 | DIY Advice, DIY Electrical Advice, Practical DIY Advice

Electrical Safe Zones

Where is it SAFE to drill in a Wall?

“Where is it safe to drill?” is a question we asked all the time on our DIY Courses. Understandably, many people are worried about this. It stops them even picking up a drill.

So here’s what you need to know……..

There are 3 MAIN AREAS where you can definitely expect cables to have been run……

These areas are rather strangely called “SAFE ZONES” even though there is very little safe about them.

Image provided by Elecsa

1. Where two walls meet

An area 150mm (6 inches) wide along the top of the wall where it meets the ceiling.

2. Horizontally either side of an Electrical Accessory

Basically this means in a straight line either side of a socket/switch/fused spur/light fitting etc. The line is the height of the socket/switch.

It runs all the way to the adjoining walls, or an obstacle, such as door or window.

Its important to note that an electrical accessory can be a lot of things, including a Consumer Unit (Fuse Box)

Its very safe to assume that there will be lots of cables running up, down and sideways around a Consumer Unit, so think very hard before you bang a nail in to put a lovely picture above the Consumer Unit. 

3. Vertically above and below an Electrical Accessory

In a straight line above and below a socket/switch/fused spur/light fitting etc. The line is the width of the socket/switch/fitting. It runs all the way to the floor and ceiling.

Again the same applies to a Consumer Unit, so be very wary.

Very Important: 

If the wall is less than 100mm (4 inches) thick, then the safe zones operate on both sides of the wall. Bear this in mind when you are drilling from a different room!

Very Very Important:

Electricians have very strict rules about where they can run their cables, and have to document if they haven’t been able to stick to the rules.

If you have had some electrical work carried out, it is worth checking the Electrical Certificate (if you were issued with one) as it may have some information about any deviations from the rules. 

Electricians in the past did not have these rules. Cables could be, and were run in all sorts of odd places.

We have found cables run diagonally across walls, doing sudden 90 degree bends and all sorts, so beware. 

If you suspect that someone in the past has carried out some electrical DIY work in your house, it is quite possible that they did not know about Safe Zones. They may have run cables wherever was most convenient for them, not always in the safest place.

If your current consumer unit does not have a functioning, healthy RCD, in fact, if you have any doubts at all,

TURN OFF THE CONSUMER UNIT BEFORE YOU DRILL

Where is it safe to drill in a Ceiling?

The rule that electricians should follow is to run the cables through the joists, as close to the centre of the joist as possible, at a depth of at least 50mm from the top and bottom of the joist. i.e 50mm from the ceiling/floor.

It is not always possible to follow this rule. There are often existing holes and notches in a joist. It is extremely likely that in the past, cables will have been run all over the place.

It is also quite possible that cables can be lying on top of plasterboard ceilings.

Because it is not always possible to run cables this way, the current electrical regulations allow cables to be run outside the zones, provided they are protected by an RCD..

If the wiring in your house is old and/or you have a Consumer Unit which does not have an RCD, then you should be even more cautious. 

If you have any doubts…..

TURN OFF THE CONSUMER UNIT BEFORE YOU DRILL

Where is it safe to drill in a Floor?

As with ceilings, the rule that electricians should follow is to run the cables through the joists, as close to the centre of the joist as possible, at a depth of at least 50mm from the top and bottom of the joist. i.e 50mm from the floor.

It is not always possible to follow this rule. There are often existing holes and notches in joist, and it is extremely likely that in times past, cables have been run all over the place. It is also extremely likely that gas & water pipes have also been run under the floorboards through notches in the joists, (in which case, it is worth checking very very carefully first) 

Because it is not always possible to run cables this way, the current electrical regulations allow cables to be run outside the zones, provided they are protected by an RCD.

If the wiring in your house is old and you have a Consumer Unit which does not have an RCD., then you should be even more cautious

If you have any doubts…..

TURN OFF THE CONSUMER UNIT BEFORE YOU DRILL

Using Push-fit Fittings

Using Push-fit Fittings

by | Jul 28, 2024 | DIY Advice, DIY Plumbing Advice, Practical DIY Advice

Using Push-fit Fittings

Speedfit Pushfit Plumbing Fittings

Learning to use Pushfit Plumbing Fittings is easier than you think. As those of you who have been on our Home Confidence 1  – Understanding Plumbing Course will know, these JG Speedfit Push-fit Plumbing fittings are really straightforward to use.

They are great for DIY plumbing. We thought it would help to make a quick video to remind you of a couple of important tips when using the fittings.

If you still feel a bit wary about using push-fit fittings, or would like a bit more practice, why not sign up for one of our DIY Plumbing Courses, or check out our DIY Assist Service (we come to your home and support you with your DIY projects)

Home Confidence 1DIY Assist
Choosing the Right Drill Bit

Choosing the Right Drill Bit

by | Apr 23, 2024 | DIY Advice, DIY Carpentry Advice, DIY Tool Advice, Practical DIY Advice

The whole issue of choosing a drill bit feels a bit of minefield. It doesn’t need to be.

We cover it on lots of our courses, so that you feel confident choosing the right drill bit for the right material.

Drilling into Wood

If you are just drilling into wood, you have a couple of choices…..

High Speed Steel (HSS)

HSS Drill bits

HSS Drill bits (High Speed Steel) are usually a gold colour or black.

The point should feel a bit sharp, but not painfully so. 

These are actually designed for metal, and they are great at drilling into metal, but they are also great for everyday drilling into wood, and can be used for plastics, as well.

They’re a great all-rounder. I generally buy them in packs of 5 from Screwfix, (in my favourite sizes). This makes them pretty economical to use. When they go blunt, I mark them up, and hang onto them to mark drill holes on plaster & masonry walls. 

If you’re using them in metal, then drill slowly and steadily. If you need to drill a large hold, start with a small hole, and gradually move up through the sizes. This gives you, the drill and the drill bits a fighting chance. 

 

Brad point Drill Bits

Brad Point Bits

You can also use a Brad Point Drill bit in wood. 

These have a really sharp point, which hurts when you press it into your finger (no need to try it, just take my word for it). They can only be used on wood, and possibly plastic, but use them on metal or masonry, they will go blunt immediately.

Image of Masonry Drill Bits

Drilling into Walls

When you’re drilling into walls, you will need Masonry Drill bits. 

These are often Silver-coloured or Gunmetal Grey. 

They don’t feel sharp to the touch, but have what looks like a reinforced point. This is because they will be drilling into a hard material, and can be used with a Hammer Drill. Basically they use both blunt force trauma & a cutting action at the same time, so need to be very robust. 

They’re not designed for using on soft materials like wood or plastic. If you do, you will probably just create an unpleasant burning smell. You can use them on plaster and plasterboard.

Drilling into Metal

Use HSS drill bits when drilling into metal  (that’s what they’re designed for).
Drill slowly, and don’t try using a blunt drill bit.
For larger holes, start by drilling a small hole, then slowly increase the size of the drill bit until you reach the right size.  Trust me, this may sound a bit slow and laborious, but it will be more successful more quickly.

Drilling into Plastic

For drilling into plastic, I generally use an HSS Drill bit (see how versatile they are). Plastic can get hot and melt, so make sure the drill bit is sharp, and don’t drill to fast.

Get more Practice…..

If you want to get some practice using Drills and choosing Drill bits, then why not try one of our Beginners DIY Courses. We will take you through the process slowly and clearly. You can have as much hands-on practice as you need …

Nailing it! DIY Beginners
DIY "Next Steps"
Drill Down into Drilling
How old are your Smoke Detectors?

How old are your Smoke Detectors?

by | Jan 20, 2024 | DIY Electrical Advice

How old are your Smoke Detectors?

Which Birthday will your Smoke Detectors be celebrating this year?

Are your Smoke Detectors still looking gleaming white?

If your Smoke Detectors are beginning to take on that yellowing plastic look, it may be that they are approaching, or possibly have already celebrated, their 10th Birthday without you even noticing.

I know, I know, another one of those things that you need to check. There seem to be so many these days.

Anyway, back to the Smoke Detectors….

Generally Smoke & Heat Detectors are regarded as a “Good thing.”

You may not feel quite so well-disposed towards them when they start chirruping at you at 3 o’clock in the morning to tell you that their back-up battery is flat, but when they are just getting on with their job, they’re definitely a good thing.

In fact they’re such a good thing, that we electricians are required to install them a lot more often these days.

Very importantly, Landlords are required to make sure that they are installed and working properly in their rental properties.

This is probably something to do with the fact that they save lives.

Inter-connected Smoke Detectors

Nowadays, we encourage people to install inter-connected mains-operated detectors with a back-up battery.

Inter-connected means that if one detector is activated, the rest of them all join in and make sure that there’s absolutely no way that you can sleep through the issue.

Mains-operated means that they aren’t going to stop working, just because the battery has gone flat, or you’ve removed the battery in a rage in the middle of the night, and forgotten to put it back.

Why replace Smoke detectors?

Unfortunately, like a lot of good things, Smoke Detectors have a shelf life. In the case of Smoke & Heat Detectors, this is about 10 years, but can be as low as 7 years. They should have a date of manufacture and Expiry Date somewhere nice and visible.

It may be time to get a step ladder out just to check.

If the expiry date is in the past, then it’s time to replace your Smoke & Heat Detectors.

Many of the quality makes of Smoke & Heat Detectors allow you to retro-fit with very little effort.

Basically you can leave the base connected in the ceiling, so don’t have to touch the wiring, then slide or twist the detector off the base, and replace it with a new one.

Job done! No electrician required.

 

Why are there different types of Detector?

It can be a bit confusing, but here’s a quick summary….

Heat Detectors

Heat Detectors are designed to go in your Kitchen, Garage, or dusty areas. As the name suggests, they wil be triggered by an increase in heat, approx 55 degrees. They are not going to be set off by you burning the toast, or your Sunday Roast. They are less susceptible to dust than Optical and Ionisation Smoke Detectors.

Ionisation Smoke Detectors

Ionisation Smoke Detectors are the old style smoke detectors. They are being phased out and replaced by Optical Smoke Detectors. They are most sensitive, and are a bit more prone to false alarms.

Optical Smoke Detectors

Optical Smoke detectors  are replacing the old Ionisation Smoke Detectors.

Ideally they should be installed in Bedrooms, Hallways, Living spaces (except Kitchens).

They will detect smouldering smoke, but are sensitive to dust, so if you need to install a detector in a dusty area, then you should use a Heat Detector instead.

Replacing old Smoke Detectors

Some makes and models of smoke detector have stopped being manufactured. This can be annoying  if you want to leave the base in position and just replace the detector itself, without calling in an electrician.
Safelincs have a useful guide to compatible makes and models on their website.
Not all makes and models are replaceable, but some are, so its worth checking, just in case. It could save you some money.

Upgrading yor Smoke Detectors

If you need to upgrade your Mains-operated Smoke detectors, you will need to call an electrician in. 

We often fit AICO Detectors, because AICO make it easy for customers to retrofit detectors in the future.  They also make it easier to add additional Detectors in areas where it would be awkward or expensive to run new wiring.

Basically they allow you to create hybrid systems with mains and battery-operated detectors talking to each other.

They also have a range of Smart Detectors for those of us who like our doorbells and washing machines to chat to us on our mobile phones while we’re away from home. An exciting world of conversations with your smoke detectors awaits you, if you decide to go down that route.

Anyway, back to the point. Please check your Smoke Detectors and make sure that they are still in date. If they aren’t, please do something about it. Don’t leave it until it’s too late.

At the risk of sounding a bit doom laden, anyone who charges a battery in their home, particularly a larger battery for a bike or scooter, has the potential for an issue, so please…

MAKE SURE YOU ARE PROTECTED