by Caroline Henn | Feb 10, 2025
Join Our June 2025 DIY Club for Women!
Kick off your DIY journey with our exclusive Monday Evening Women-only DIY Club, starting on 2nd June 2025. This 4-week course, priced at just £95, includes all 4 sessions and offers a unique opportunity to learn and practice essential DIY skills in a supportive, women-only environment.
Our DIY Club for Women provides a safe and relaxed space to explore new skills at your own pace. With a friendly atmosphere and plenty of room to experiment, you’ll gain confidence in tackling DIY projects at home. Each session is designed to give you a comprehensive grounding in practical skills, along with handy tips and tricks.
Sessions begin at 6.30pm, but feel free to arrive when it suits you. We wrap up between 8.30 and 9pm, ensuring a flexible and enjoyable learning experience.
With a wide range of tools and ample space to practice, you’ll have everything you need to succeed. Plus, bring your DIY issues and problems, and we’ll work together to find practical solutions that meet your needs.
Don’t miss out on this empowering DIY Course for Women—reserve your spot today!
by Caroline Henn | Feb 2, 2025
Friday 2 May
2pm – 4pm
Learn to use a Drill
Conquer your fear of using a drill in this Bitesize introduction to Cordless Drills & impact Drivers. Discover just how easy it is to use a drill safely and confidently.
What You’ll Learn:
- You’ll learn how to choose the right drill bit,
- how to drill with control and get successful results every time.
- Most importantly, we’ll help you feel confident about knowing where it is safe to drill, and what to do, if things don’t go according to plan.
- AND you’ll learn about choosing and using the right fixings for your projects.
This course will really get you started on your DIY journey
This is part of our short “Bitesize-DIY” courses for those who don’t have time for a half-day course. They are designed to help you get started on your DIY journey, and build your DIY Confidence to start working through that DIY Jobs list at home
Book this Bitesize-DIY Drilling Course
by Caroline Henn | Dec 18, 2024
Learn to use a Drill
Conquer your fear of using a drill in this Bitesize introduction to Cordless Drills & impact Drivers
Discover just how easy it is to use a drill safely and confidently.
You’ll learn how to choose the right drill bit, how to drill with control and get successful results every time.
Most importantly, we’ll help you feel confident about knowing where it is safe to drill, and what to do, if things don’t go according to plan.
AND you’ll lear about choosing and using the right fixings for your projects.
This course will really get you started on your DIY journey
This is part of our short “Bitesize” courses for those who don’t have time for a half-day course. They are designed to help you get started on your DIY journey, and build your DIY Confidence to start working through that DIY Jobs list at home
by Caroline Henn | Oct 27, 2024 | DIY Advice, DIY Electrical Advice, DIY Plumbing Advice, Practical DIY Advice
4 Things you should do when you move into a New Home
A Little Housekeeping:
The Essential Stuff You Should Know
This may not be what you first think of when you move into a new home, but it could save you alot of money. Think of this as a “getting to know your home” exercise.
These are essental checks thatyou should make in your New Home. They could save you money and might even save your life. They will definitely stop a plumber from giving you that pitying look when you’re not sure where the water turns off.
We all know nothing productive happens without a cuppa first. So, brew up and let’s crack on.
You might think you know where the Consumer Unit (fuse box, for us mere mortals) is, but let’s be sure, shall we? Now, ask yourself these important questions:
Can I turn it off quickly if I need to?
Go on, try switching it off and back on again. If it’s buried at the back of a cupboard, do yourself a favour and keep the path clear – no one wants to dig through old paint cans or a mountain of camping gear in an emergency. Also, maybe avoid storing anything flammable in there? Just a thought.
Can you clearly tell which switch controls what, or does it feel more like a raffle? If it’s the latter, sorting that out should be a priority. If you’re not sure how to do this, check out our post on Consumer Units
If you’ve no idea what that is, have a look at Electrical Safety First, who explain what they are, and why they are an extremely good thing to have. It’s important.
If you do have one, test it! Press the “T” or “Test” Button and make sure it’s still doing its job. A little maintenance never hurts.
What type of Consumer Unit do you have?
This probably seems a bit of strange question, but its good to know the answer. You may have listened to your Solicitor’s advice and had an electrical survey carried out as part of the buying process. If you did, you should know a bit more about this, and should have a certificate to refer to. If you’re not sure what the certificate actually tells you, go back to the electrician who carried out the inspection for you. They can explain. Failing that, you can always contact us, and we can explain it to you.
If you didn’t have an electrical inspection, check out our post on Consumer Units – Know your Stuff. There’s a bit of useful information there, explaining what you’e looking.
Look for a Smoke & Heat Detectors
Hopefully your new Home has Smoke and Heat Detectors installed. If they do, please give them a quick Test, by pressing the TEST button. Check the Expiry date while you’re there.
If you can’t find any Smoke/Heat Detectors, or they are past their expiry date, please make getting new ones installed a priority.
Check out our post on Smoke Detector Safety, if you need more information
And lastly……..Take a Meter Reading
You don’t want to be paying for the last occupants’ Electricity, so take a Meter reading and submit it to your supplier. Ideally, take a photo of the reading, so that you have a Time & Date Stamp to refer back to.
You’d be surprised how many people have no clue how to turn off their water. In fact, a lot of people who come on our DIY courses haven’t a clue either. I get it – it’s not something you think about until water’s gushing from somewhere it really shouldn’t be. But trust me, you don’t want to be on a frantic treasure hunt while the insurance claim’s ticking up.
1. Start Outside – Look for the Pavement cover
You’ll likely find a small cover near your front gate – that’s where the external stopcock hides. If you live in a flat, identifying which one’s yours can be a bit of a guessing game. Turning them off one by one works, but it might lead to some awkward neighbourly encounters (especially if they’re mid-shower).
It should look something like this. It might even have “Water” written on it:
Use a Flathead Screwdriver to flip the Top up
Use a Flathead Screwdriver to flip the Cover up
Don’t be fooled. This Cover turns anti-clockwise to open. Badly thought-out design, which isn’t installed any longer. Try twisting it, it might come up. If not contact your Water Supplier and get them to replace it.
Not uncommon if the Pavement has been resurfaced. Get it unstuck now, before you have an emergency, and can’t get the cover up.
Take a Meter Reading
If you find it, and it has a meter, take a meter reading. Again, I would take a photo, just for posterity.
Its also worth double-checking that it doesn’t keep running when you’ve turned the supply off. If it does, then you may be paying for someone else’s supply. Rare, but not impossible
The usual suspects are under the kitchen sink or in a utility room, but I’ve come across them in all sorts of weird places – under floorboards, hidden in random cupboards. Start with the obvious and work your way to the downright bizarre.
Check out our other post on Finding Your Stop Tap
Ask your new neighbours – they might have the same setup and could save you some time. If that doesn’t work, contact your water supplier – they might have a record of it. If you’re still out of luck, put it on your to-do list and get a plumber involved. They can install one in a more sensible spot.
Your gas meter will likely be near the front of the house, possibly in a little box outside. Make sure you can turn it off without too much faff. If it’s locked up, get yourself a meter box key – they’re cheap as chips at your local hardware store.
These tanks aren’t exactly discreet – you’ve probably tripped over them a few times already. Just double-check you know where the shut-off valve is, and maybe have a quick peek at security while you’re at it – oil theft’s a thing in the countryside.
Look for a Carbon Monoxide Detector
If you have a Gas or solid-fuel Boiler, or a multi-fuel stove, you also need to have a Carbon-Monoxide Detector.
If you can’t find one in your new home, please pop down to the nearest DIY/Hardware store/Supermarket & buy one NOW.
You may have no idea when the last service was carried out on these appliances.
You don’t want your first night in your new home to be your last. I know that sounds dramatic, but Carbon Monoxide is invisible. It doesn’t smell, and it can kill you very quickly.
You’ve just ticked off three essential checks that most people ignore until disaster strikes. Sure, dealing with a crisis is a crash course in home maintenance, but wouldn’t you rather be prepared than panicked?
If you’re renting, your landlord really should have told you all this. If they didn’t, maybe give them a gentle nudge – it’s in their best interests too, after all!
by Caroline Henn | Aug 20, 2024 | DIY Advice, DIY Electrical Advice, Practical DIY Advice
Where is it SAFE to drill in a Wall?
“Where is it safe to drill?” is a question we asked all the time on our DIY Courses. Understandably, many people are worried about this. It stops them even picking up a drill.
So here’s what you need to know……..
There are 3 MAIN AREAS where you can definitely expect cables to have been run……
These areas are rather strangely called “SAFE ZONES” even though there is very little safe about them.
An area 150mm (6 inches) wide along the top of the wall where it meets the ceiling.
2. Horizontally either side of an Electrical Accessory
Basically this means in a straight line either side of a socket/switch/fused spur/light fitting etc. The line is the height of the socket/switch.
It runs all the way to the adjoining walls, or an obstacle, such as door or window.
Its important to note that an electrical accessory can be a lot of things, including a Consumer Unit (Fuse Box)
Its very safe to assume that there will be lots of cables running up, down and sideways around a Consumer Unit, so think very hard before you bang a nail in to put a lovely picture above the Consumer Unit.
3. Vertically above and below an Electrical Accessory
In a straight line above and below a socket/switch/fused spur/light fitting etc. The line is the width of the socket/switch/fitting. It runs all the way to the floor and ceiling.
Again the same applies to a Consumer Unit, so be very wary.
If the wall is less than 100mm (4 inches) thick, then the safe zones operate on both sides of the wall. Bear this in mind when you are drilling from a different room!
Electricians have very strict rules about where they can run their cables, and have to document if they haven’t been able to stick to the rules.
If you have had some electrical work carried out, it is worth checking the Electrical Certificate (if you were issued with one) as it may have some information about any deviations from the rules.
Electricians in the past did not have these rules. Cables could be, and were run in all sorts of odd places.
We have found cables run diagonally across walls, doing sudden 90 degree bends and all sorts, so beware.
If you suspect that someone in the past has carried out some electrical DIY work in your house, it is quite possible that they did not know about Safe Zones. They may have run cables wherever was most convenient for them, not always in the safest place.
If your current consumer unit does not have a functioning, healthy RCD, in fact, if you have any doubts at all,
TURN OFF THE CONSUMER UNIT BEFORE YOU DRILL
Where is it safe to drill in a Ceiling?
The rule that electricians should follow is to run the cables through the joists, as close to the centre of the joist as possible, at a depth of at least 50mm from the top and bottom of the joist. i.e 50mm from the ceiling/floor.
It is not always possible to follow this rule. There are often existing holes and notches in a joist. It is extremely likely that in the past, cables will have been run all over the place.
It is also quite possible that cables can be lying on top of plasterboard ceilings.
Because it is not always possible to run cables this way, the current electrical regulations allow cables to be run outside the zones, provided they are protected by an RCD..
If the wiring in your house is old and/or you have a Consumer Unit which does not have an RCD, then you should be even more cautious.
If you have any doubts…..
TURN OFF THE CONSUMER UNIT BEFORE YOU DRILL
Where is it safe to drill in a Floor?
As with ceilings, the rule that electricians should follow is to run the cables through the joists, as close to the centre of the joist as possible, at a depth of at least 50mm from the top and bottom of the joist. i.e 50mm from the floor.
It is not always possible to follow this rule. There are often existing holes and notches in joist, and it is extremely likely that in times past, cables have been run all over the place. It is also extremely likely that gas & water pipes have also been run under the floorboards through notches in the joists, (in which case, it is worth checking very very carefully first)
Because it is not always possible to run cables this way, the current electrical regulations allow cables to be run outside the zones, provided they are protected by an RCD.
If the wiring in your house is old and you have a Consumer Unit which does not have an RCD., then you should be even more cautious
If you have any doubts…..
TURN OFF THE CONSUMER UNIT BEFORE YOU DRILL
by Caroline Henn | Jul 29, 2024
by Caroline Henn | Jul 29, 2024
by Caroline Henn | Jul 28, 2024 | DIY Advice, DIY Plumbing Advice, Practical DIY Advice
Speedfit Pushfit Plumbing Fittings
Learning to use Pushfit Plumbing Fittings is easier than you think. As those of you who have been on our Home Confidence 1 – Understanding Plumbing Course will know, these JG Speedfit Push-fit Plumbing fittings are really straightforward to use.
They are great for DIY plumbing. We thought it would help to make a quick video to remind you of a couple of important tips when using the fittings.
If you still feel a bit wary about using push-fit fittings, or would like a bit more practice, why not sign up for one of our DIY Plumbing Courses, or check out our DIY Assist Service (we come to your home and support you with your DIY projects)
by Caroline Henn | Jul 4, 2023 | DIY Electrical Advice, Practical DIY Advice
I can’t promise that this is going to be an exciting read. I’ll do my best, but, unless you’re a complete electrical nerd, this is probably not going to really light your fire.
Let’s be honest, you’re probably only reading this because you’re in a panic and can’t reset your RCD, so as long as I help you get that sorted, I’ve done my job.
However, it may get you out of a tight spot in an emergency, and save you a lot of money. Faced with a sudden loss of power, many people, understandably, panic and call out an electrician, when, with a little knowledge & patience, they can sort the issue themselves.
What is an RCD?
It helps you know why we have an RCD, or Residual Current Device. Its a safety device which is now, fortunately, pretty common in most domestic electrical supplies.
If you’re not sure whether you have one, it should look something like the images below
There will usually be a small reset button on it, sometimes red, yellow, blue or black – basically down to manufacturer’s preference. This button should have TEST written somewhere near it. As the name suggests, this button allows you to test that the RCD trips.
It will either have RCD, RCCB or RCBO written on it.
RCD
The black Test button is at the TOP of the RCD
RCBO
The test button is grey, just above the lever
RCCB
Note the Black Tests button with a “T” on it.
RCCB-Main Switch
RCCB being used as a Standalone Main Switch
How does an RCD work?
An RCD measures the current in the circuits that it controls. It measures the current leaving and returning. If there is an imbalance, it assumes that some of the current has leaked out and is causing a danger. (Leaking current could be going into an object that you may touch, such as metallic light fitting, or into you, because you are laready touching it). This is generally regarded as a very bad thing.
The current is immediately (or, at least within a few milliseconds) switched off and there is no longer any power.
This bascially means that you won’t be electrocuted, and is therefore a very good thing.
RCDs are designed to be reset. Sometimes they trip for no apparent reason. They can be tripped by a lightbulb blowing. It isn’t always an indication of a problem………
Nerd alert….
Just as an aside that you can happily skip until another day…. the number of electronic pieces of equipment that we have in our houses these days is creating a problem for older style RCDs. Electronic equipment often leaks a bit more current to earth than these RCDs, can deal with, so we are likely to get more nuisance RCD tripping than we used to. This is being addressed by the introduction of new types of RCD that can identify this kind of earth leakage. These are now being installed in new installations as a matter of course. However, if you have an older type of consumer unit, and you are getting regular RCD tripping, it may be time to call in an electrician to help you deal with it).
………Anyway, back to the real reason we’re here…..
If the lever on an RCD is in the DOWN position, it is OFF. To reset it, the lever simply needs to be pushed back UP.
Useful tip: For some RCDs, it is necessary to push the lever fully downwards before it will let you push it back UP and reset.
In many cases, this will be fine. The RCD will reset and all will be well. You can now stop reading, pat yourself on the back & go and put the kettle on.
My RCD won’t reset. What should I do?
When I am called to a house where an RCD keeps tripping, this is the first question I ask:
What happened just before the RCD Tripped?
It probably seems obvious, but when you’re dealing with what seems like an emergency, we often miss the obvious.
Let’s face it. RCDs don’t trip when you have time to deal with them, they choose the most inopportune moments, such as when you’re about to put the turkey in the oven on Christmas Day, or when the kids are filthy dirty from some sporting activity, and need to get into the bath. The pressure is on, and you don’t have time to think.
If you were in the house when the RCD tripped, ask yourself what happened just before the RCD tripped. If you had just turned the Kettle on, or switched on the Iron or (common culprit) Hair-straighteners, there’s a possibility that this may be the cause of the problem.
Do the obvious thing, and fully unplug the Kettle/Iron/Hair-straighteners and reset the RCD. (i.e switch off and remove the plug from the socket).
If the RCD resets and stays reset, then you have probably found your culprit.
The problem appliance can be dealt with in slower time. You have power, so you can pat yourself on the back, stick the kettle on (unless its the culprit) & move on.
The next question you might want to ask yourself is….
Did I just drill through a cable?
If you just drilled through a wall and the RCD tripped, there may be a strong link between the two events. It is quite possible that you may have drilled through, or otherwise damaged a cable. If you didn’t check the positions of cables prior to drilling, you have just learnt a useful, but possibly quite expensive lesson. Its time to call in an electrician to repair the damaged cable as soon as possible. It is quite possible that the RCD will not reset until the damage has been repaired.
Next time you get the drill out, it would be worth checking out one of our other posts on the inappropriately named Electrical Safe Zones. Contrary to their name, these are areas where it is actually dangerous to drill, as they could legitimately hide cables.
If you look at the Electrical Safe Zones. post and realise that you did, in fact, drill straight into one of these safe zones, please call an electrician as soon as possible. There may be some brown scorch marks, or even a bit of smoke coming out of the hole – all signs that things are not well.
How do I identify the cause of the fault?
If neither of these scenarios applies and the RCD seems to have tripped for no reason at all, there is a straightforward procedure to follow, which in most cases will identify where the problem lies.
Your Consumer Unit should be properly labelled. The RCD will be labelled and the fuses (or MCBs) controlled by it, also labelled. Hopefully it will look something like this:
Make a note of the names of the circuits which are covered by the RCD.
Firstly switch off the RCD and all the fuses (MCBs) controlled by it. All the levers should be pointing DOWN
In this case, lets imagine that RCD 2 is the problem. The circuits covered by RCD 2 are:
1. Downstairs Sockets
2. Water Heater (Probably the Boiler)
3. Upstairs Lights
Turn off all those fuses (Lever pointing DOWN). Then unplug everything that is plugged into the Downstairs Sockets.
If the Boiler is also not working, and you don’t have an immersion heater in your house, it is quite likely that the “Water Heater” circuit applies to the Boiler. If it is plugged in, pull the plug out. If it has a fused spur, then pull the fuse out of the fuse holder on the fused spur.
Now, we need to identify which circuit is causing the problems. Start with the Downstairs Sockets.
First turn on the fuse (MCB) for the downstairs sockets, and see if the RCD also stays on. If it doesn’t stay on, check that you have definitely unplugged everything on that circuit.
-
Might there be something plugged in in a cupboard that you had forgotten about?
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Do you have an aerial booster plugged in, in the loft?
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Is there an Outside Socket
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Are there lights under the Kitchen cabinets, running from a fused Spur?
The list goes on…….. and on……
It is very easy to miss something at this stage, so you may have to really rack your brains. Cooker Hoods are an easy one to miss.
If you are pretty sure that everything has been unplugged and you still can’t reset the RCD, it is time to call an electrician. This scenario (which is pretty unlikely) would suggest that there may be a problem with the wiring or something on the circuit.
If the RCD remains on, then go round and plug in each of the appliances that you previously unplugged. Switch each one on. If at any stage, the RCD trips, you have found your culprit.
If the RCD remains on while you plug everything back in, it appears that the problem isn’t on this particular circuit.
If you are pretty sure that everything has been unplugged and you still can’t reset the RCD, it is time to call an electrician. This scenario (which is pretty unlikely) would suggest that there may be a problem with the wiring or something on the circuit.
If the RCD remains on, then go round and plug in each of the appliances that you previously unplugged. Switch each one on. If at any stage, the RCD trips, you have found your culprit.
If the RCD remains on while you plug everything back in, it appears that the problem isn’t on this particular circuit.
Move onto the next stage…….
Move on to the next circuit and do the same thing.
In this case, it is the boiler circuit, so it will just be a case of putting the fuse back in and switching the boiler on.
If the RCD trips at this point, there could be an issue with the boiler. Take a look to see if there are any signs of water under the boiler. A leak from a boiler onto the controls is a common cause of this kind of problem. If you suspect that this is the case, you need to call a Gas Safe Registered Plumber.
Finally turn on the third circuit. In this case, it is the Upstairs Lighting Circuit. To save time, you have left all the light bulbs in their fittings. If the RCD trips when you turn the fuse (MCB) for the lights back on, take all the lightbulbs out, just in case one of them is causing a problem, and switch the Fuse back on.
If the RCD stays on, put each light bulb back into its fitting in turn. For safety’s sake, make sure that you turn the fuse (MCB) off each time that you put a bulb in. Turn it on once the bulb is in position. If the RCD trips when you put one of the bulbs back in, then that will be your culprit.
By this stage, hopefully, you may have identified your culprit. However, if the RCD is still not resetting, or turns back on and continues to trip, then it is time to call out an electrician.
You have already saved yourself some money. You have gone through a methodical series of tests to eliminate any obvious issues.
You can tell an electrician exactly what you have done and what the outcome was. This means that the electrician already has a lot of really useful information before they start looking themselves. Believe you me, that makes an electrician’s job an awful lot easier.
Under no circumstances should you start taking a look inside any electrical fixtures and fittings yourself. This is a very dangerous thing to do, if you don’t know what you’re doing. Let’s be honest, you probably wouldn’t know if you were looking at a problem anyway, so why put yourself at risk?
Plumbing issues are generally pretty easy to see – dripping water is pretty visible, & gives you an immediate clue about where to start looking.
Electrical issues are a lot more difficult to find. Electrical fault finding is very like detective work. Any clues that you, as the householder can give, will speed the process up, and ultimately save you money.
