Smoke Detectors in the Night

by Caroline Henn | Nov 15, 2024 | DIY Electrical Advice, Practical DIY Advice

Smoke Detectors in the Night

It’s that time of year again

Its no coincidence that Smoke & Heat Detectors start beeping at you in the wee small hours as the weather starts t0 get colder.

Batteries struggle in colder weather.

Many Mains-operated Smoke and Heat Detectors have a removable back-up battery (for those times when you have a power cut, and need to know that you’re still protected).

If the battery is running a bit low, its going to let you know by beeping at you intermittently. Annoyingly this often means that you’re not in the right place at the right time to work out which Smoke Detector is actually beeping at you.

What can you do?

Well, be prepared. This is likely to happen in the middle of the night, and it is going to drive you mad.

Buy some batteries, just in case

Most Smoke/Heat Detectors take a 9V PP3 Battery. Its a good idea to stock up on these in anticipation tht you’re going to need them

How do you change the battery?

Each make of Smoke Detector is slightly different.

Some twist off – you turn the body of the Smoke Detector Ant-clockwise and it drops down, giving you access to the battery chamber.

Others (Aico in particular) slide off. You need a to push a small flat-head screwdriver into a small hole to release the locking mechanism.

If you search online for your make of Smoke Detector, there will be instructions for accessing the battery and changing it.

Once you have changed the battery, press the TEST button, to make sure that its working. If you have Interconnected-Smoke Detectors, this should set all your smoke Detectors going.

Check the date

Yes, Smoke & Heat Detectors have an expiry date. This should be written on the side of the detector. Often they’ll tell you that they’re old, by beeping at you.

If your Smoke Detctectors have expired, please change them. With some makes, this is very much a DIY Job.

Check out our post “How Old are Your Smoke Detectors?” if you need more information about how to do this.

Another useful source of helpful information is the Safelincs Website. They sell all sorts of alarms, and have lots of useful How-to Guides on their website.

Please Look after your Smoke Detectors.

They could save your life.

4 Things you should do when you move into a New Home

by Caroline Henn | Oct 27, 2024 | DIY Advice, Practical DIY Advice

4 Things you should do when you move into a New Home

A Little Housekeeping: The Essential Stuff You Should Know

Think of this as a “getting to know your home” exercise.

These are essental checks thatyou should make in your New Home. They could save you money and might even save your life. They will definitely stop a plumber from giving you that pitying look when you’re not sure where the water turns off.

Step 1: Stick the Kettle on

We all know nothing productive happens without a cuppa first. So, brew up and let’s crack on.

Step 2: Get Familiar with your Electricity Supply

You might think you know where the Consumer Unit (fuse box, for us mere mortals) is, but let’s be sure, shall we? Now, ask yourself these important questions:

Can I turn it off quickly if I need to?

Go on, try switching it off and back on again. If it’s buried at the back of a cupboard, do yourself a favour and keep the path clear – no one wants to dig through old paint cans or a mountain of camping gear in an emergency. Also, maybe avoid storing anything flammable in there? Just a thought.

Is it properly labelled?

Can you clearly tell which switch controls what, or does it feel more like a raffle? If it’s the latter, sorting that out should be a priority. If you’re not sure how to do this, check out our post on Consumer Units

Do you have an RCD?

If you’ve no idea what that is, have a look at Electrical Safety First, who explain what they are, and why they are an extremely good thing to have. It’s important.

If you do have one, test it! Press the “T” or “Test” Button and make sure it’s still doing its job. A little maintenance never hurts.

What type of Consumer Unit do you have?

This probably seems a bit of strange question, but its good to know the answer. You may have listened to your Solicitor’s advice and had an electrical survey carried out as part of the buying process. If you did, you should know a bit more about this, and should have a certificate to refer to. If you’re not sure what the certificate actually tells you, go back to the electrician who carried out the inspection for you. They can explain. Failing that, you can always contact us, and we can explain it to you.

If you didn’t have an electrical inspection, check out our post on Consumer Units – Know your Stuff. There’s a bit of useful information there, explaining what you’e looking.

Look for a Smoke & Heat Detectors

Hopefully your new Home has Smoke and Heat Detectors installed. If they do, please give them a quick Test, by pressing the TEST button. Check the Expiry date while you’re there.

If you can’t find any Smoke/Heat Detectors, or they are past their expiry date, please make getting new ones installed a priority.

Check out our post on Smoke Detector Safety, if you need more information

And lastly……..Take a Meter Reading

You don’t want to be paying for the last occupants’ Electricity, so take a Meter reading and submit it to your supplier. Ideally, take a photo of the reading, so that you have a Time & Date Stamp to refer back to.

Step 3: Discover where your Water Supply turns off

You’d be surprised how many people have no clue how to turn off their water. In fact, a lot of people who come on our DIY courses haven’t a clue either. I get it – it’s not something you think about until water’s gushing from somewhere it really shouldn’t be. But trust me, you don’t want to be on a frantic treasure hunt while the insurance claim’s ticking up.

1. Start Outside – Look for the Pavement cover

You’ll likely find a small cover near your front gate – that’s where the external stopcock hides. If you live in a flat, identifying which one’s yours can be a bit of a guessing game. Turning them off one by one works, but it might lead to some awkward neighbourly encounters (especially if they’re mid-shower).

It should look something like this. It might even have “Water” written on it:

Old Style Metal Cover

Use a Flathead Screwdriver to flip the Top up

Modern Plastic Cover

Use a Flathead Screwdriver to flip the Cover up

Annoying "Turn" Cover

Don’t be fooled. This Cover turns anti-clockwise to open. Badly thought-out design, which isn’t installed any longer. Try twisting it, it might come up. If not contact your Water Supplier and get them to replace it.

Metal Cover Stuck Down

Not uncommon if the Pavement has been resurfaced. Get it unstuck now, before you have an emergency, and can’t get the cover up.

Take a Meter Reading

If you find it, and it has a meter, take a meter reading. Again, I would take a photo, just for posterity.

Its also worth double-checking that it doesn’t keep running when you’ve turned the supply off. If it does, then you may be paying for someone else’s supply. Rare, but not impossible

2. Check Indoors

The usual suspects are under the kitchen sink or in a utility room, but I’ve come across them in all sorts of weird places – under floorboards, hidden in random cupboards. Start with the obvious and work your way to the downright bizarre.

Check out our other post on Finding Your Stop Tap

3. Still Can’t Find It?

Ask your new neighbours – they might have the same setup and could save you some time. If that doesn’t work, contact your water supplier – they might have a record of it. If you’re still out of luck, put it on your to-do list and get a plumber involved. They can install one in a more sensible spot.

Step 4: Gas or Oil - Find the OFF Switch

Mains Gas

Your gas meter will likely be near the front of the house, possibly in a little box outside. Make sure you can turn it off without too much faff. If it’s locked up, get yourself a meter box key – they’re cheap as chips at your local hardware store.

LPG or Oil

These tanks aren’t exactly discreet – you’ve probably tripped over them a few times already. Just double-check you know where the shut-off valve is, and maybe have a quick peek at security while you’re at it – oil theft’s a thing in the countryside.

Look for a Carbon Monoxide Detector

If you have a Gas or solid-fuel Boiler, or a multi-fuel stove, you also need to have a Carbon-Monoxide Detector.

If you can’t find one in your new home, please pop down to the nearest DIY/Hardware store/Supermarket & buy one NOW.

You may have no idea when the last service was carried out on these appliances.

You don’t want your first night in your new home to be your last. I know that sounds dramatic, but Carbon Monoxide is invisible. It doesn’t smell, and it can kill you very quickly.

Give yourself a Round of Applause

You’ve just ticked off three essential checks that most people ignore until disaster strikes. Sure, dealing with a crisis is a crash course in home maintenance, but wouldn’t you rather be prepared than panicked?

If you’re renting, your landlord really should have told you all this. If they didn’t, maybe give them a gentle nudge – it’s in their best interests too, after all!

Where do I Turn my Water off?

by Caroline Henn | Oct 27, 2024 | DIY Advice, DIY Plumbing Advice

Where do I Turn my Water off?

We have lost count of the number of houses we have been to where the customer has no idea how to turn their water off in an emergency.

This is one of those life skills it is much easier to learn before you actually need it.

Meeting your Stop Tap for the first time, while water is pouring out of a broken pipe, can often feel quite stressful.

If you do know exactly where your stop tap is, can you turn it on and off easily?

In fact, we recommend that you start a routine of checking regularly, just in case. Check out our post on Regular Home Maintenance.

If you regularly practice for just such a scenario, give yourself a congratulatory pat on the back and move onto another topic.

If you’re not sure, or only have a vague idea, it might be worth reading a little bit further.

External Stop Taps

If you’re lucky, your water may turn off in the street outside your house. There will be a little metal or plastic manhole cover on the pavement looking much like this. There is a often a clue stamped on the top. (If the word “GAS” is stamped on the top, you are not looking at your Water Stop tap):

Old Style Metal Cover

Modern Plastic Cover

You may need a flat-headed screwdriver or other improvised tool to prise the top up. (Its quite common for the top to have been glued down during a pavement resurfacing. You don’t want to find this out in an emergency).

Very occasionally, you may come across a style which turns, rather than lifts. If attempts to prise the lid off fail, you may have one of these. They can be a bit awkward to get the lid off, and thankfully, they don’t seem to be installed these days. Just try twisting the lid, anti-cllockwise (in the direction you would turn a tap on), using the blade of the screwdriver, and hopefully it will move.

Once you have the lid off, you will see either an old style brass tap, or a newer plastic tap. If you’re unlucky, the Brass Tap may have seized up and won’t move. Sometimes it helps to try to open the tap rather than turn it off. This allows it to move, and then you can close it.

If you have a plastic tap, there should be a plastic key to operate it, under the lid. If you can’t see one, open up one of your neighbours’ Stop Tap covers and borrow theirs. (That maybe why you don’t have one). For some reason, the plastic taps are often quite hard to turn off completely. It might feel that you’re about to break the plastic key before it actually stops the final dribble.

Brass Tap Style Stop Tap

Not much chance of getting this old Stop Tap to move. Give it a go, with some WD40, but this maybe a call to Bristol Water

Modern Stop Tap Style

This should just need a quarter-turn using the Blue Handle.

Please note, the handle will come off in your hand. Don’t panic!

Stop Tap Plastic Key

You will need this to turn your water off. It should be with your Stop Tap. If you can’t see it, check one of your neighbour’s Stop Taps, and borrow theirs.

External Stop Tap with Meter

You may already have a a meter. In which case turning off your water supply should be a doddle

If the stop tap is a long way down, you may need a Stopcock Key to turn it. That’s something else you may not be able to get hold of in a hurry.

TOP TIP

If your Water Stop Tap is an old BRASS TAP, open the tap fully, when you turn the water back on. Then turn the tap back a ¼ Turn.

This will give you some Wriggle room if your Stop Tap starts to seize up in the future.

At this point you should give yourself a pat on the back.

If you’re in the middle of an emergency, you have prevented any more damage being caused.
If you’re being proactive and preparing yourself for an emergency situation, you now know that your External Stop tap does (or doesn’t) turn off.

Your local Water supplier is responsible for the External Stop Tap. If it isn’t working, or is leaking, it is their responsibility to come out and repair it. Bristol Water have some useful information on their site about what do in this eventuality.

Internal Stop Taps

Some people have some idea about where their Stop Tap is inside their house.

A good place to start looking is under the Kitchen Sink. Usually, in my experience, this means pulling out an odd assortment of cleaning products, congealed packets of washing powder and cleaning cloths in order to actually reach it. However, when you get there, it may look like this:

If it isn’t there, these are some of the other places worth looking:

Just inside your front door – how lucky you are – in a box marked “Water Stop Tap” – Ok, we can all dream.
Maybe in an outhouse, the old lean-to toilet in the back garden, in the garage…..
Under the floorboards – I’m not joking. I have found many stop taps hidden away under the floor – what were they thinking? Wobbly floorboards, not screwed down can be a bit of a giveaway for this particular scenario. (Our original Stop Tap was just out of reach if you took up the loose floorboards in the porch, laid on your front and stretched as far as possible. I can only assume they sent small children down there in the old days.)

Internal Stop Tap coming up out of a solid floor

Internal Stop Tap Above Ground

This horrible looking Stop Tap is coming up out of a solid floor.

Stop Tap Hidden Under Floor

This is more common thn you would think. I find this most often in old Edwardian/Victorian Terraced Houses.

You’re not going to get to this in a hurry

If it isn’t in one of these places, then you can assume that either you don’t have one (not unusual), or that you may have one in an obscure position which nobody has know about for decades. If that is the case, even if yo do find it, the chances of it still being able to turn are pretty obscure.

TOP TIP

At the next available opportunity, employ a Plumber to install an internal Stop tap for you in a sensible, accessible position.

Do I need an Internal Stop-tap?

In a word, no. There is no requirement for you to have an internal stop tap. If your external stop tap works well and is easily accessible, then you may not need to have one.

In the event of an emergency, for instance a plumbing fitting failing in the first floor bathroom, the time it takes for you to run down the stairs, find a flat-headed implement (to prise off the cover), locate a headtorch, put your slippers on and get out to the external stop tap, several litres of water may have flooded through your Kitchen ceiling (and light fittings).

There are alternatives to the traditional Tap-like Stop-tap, which can be awkward and stiff to use. They require a degree of force and dexterity, and as we have discussed can be in inaccessible places.

One option is a Lever-style tap, such as this. They have a very definite action, are easy to operate and are less likely to seize up.

Lever Stop Tap (Open)

Lever Stop Tap (Closed)

Another alternative is the Surestop Stoptap. This can be installed at a distance from the pipework. It is operated by what looks like a large Lightswitch. It employs a pressure switch, which means there is a very slight delay between pressing the switch, and the water flow stopping, but is still very quick and is extremely easy to operate.

It is recommended that this is installed as an additional means of isolating the water supply, so it is ideal if you have an external Stop-tap. It really should not be your only means of turning off the supply.

Whether you decide to have an internal stop-tap installed, or rely on an external stop-tap, we strongly urge you to go and check that one or other, or (in a perfect world, both of them) work and that you know how to access and operate them in a hurry.

Please don’t wait until you need to do this in an emergency.

Keep your Home ticking over

by Caroline Henn | Oct 24, 2024 | DIY Advice, DIY Electrical Advice, DIY Plumbing Advice, Practical DIY Advice

Keep your Home ticking over

Top Tips to help you keep your Home Safe.

Follow this simple guide for some essential Proactive Home Maintenance on the weekends that the Clocks change. Its a great time to carry out these simple jobs.

Nothing too strenuous. You probably won’t even need any tools. Just a few checks which could save you a bit of money, and possibly, even your life.

I’m recommending that you carry out the following FOUR checks:

Give Your RCDs a bit of exercise
Check that your Smoke & Heat Detectors are working and in date
Check your Water Stop Tap & make sure it works
Check your Carbon Monoxide Detector & make sure it works

The reason I suggest this weekend, is because the clocks change.

It happens twice a year, which is the perfect interval for carrying out these checks.

On Sunday morning, you’re going to be scratching your head, trying to remember how to reset the clock on the Microwave and the Oven.

(How many of us give up with clock in the car, and decide that living 6 months in the future is infinitely preferable to wading through a huge car manual trying to find the tiny paragraph dedicated to the overly complicated clock setting?)

Anyway, I’m not really worried about the car. Its your Home, and in fact, you & your family, that matters this weekend. Let me explain…..

Give your RCDs a bit of exercise

The clocks going back (or forwards in March) is the trigger. It happens twice a year, and that’s the recommended interval for exercising your RCDs.

PLEASE DO THIS TEST BEFORE YOU CHANGE THE TIME ON ALL YOUR CLOCKS

Who knew an RCD needed exercise?

Ok, I’m sure some of you are also asking what one of those is. If you’ve never heard of them, then please check out our useful post on Tripping RCDs.

You can find out what they do, why they’re not only a good idea, but actually essential for keeping you safe. You’ll even learn what to do if they start tripping.

All you need to do, is press the little TEST or (T) button on the RCD, and it will switch off. (The lever will drop down) This will turn off the power to a number of circuits.

Just reset the RCD by pushing the lever back up (Some Consumer Units need you to push the lever down a bit further, before you push it up).

Some of you may have a nice modern Consumer Unit, where each circuit is protected by its own RCD. These are called RCBOs. The same principle for these. Just press the TEST button, turn the circuit off, and then turn it back on.

That’s all you need to do.

Old Style RCCB

Press the button. Turn the lever back up to reset.

RCD

Press the black button. The lever will drop. Press the level back up to reset.

RCCB

Press the black “T” button. The lever will drop. Press the level back up to reset.

Newer RCBO

Press the GREY Test button. The lever will drop. Press the level back up to reset.

Why am I asking you to do this?

RCDs (or RCBOs) constantly monitor your electrical installation. Their job is to switch everything off in the event of a fault. You need them to be in tip top condition, so that they do this as quickly as possible, and save your life.

What if my RCD won’t switch off?

If this happens, then your RCD is not doing its job properly. It proves how important it is to carry out this test.

I recommend that you contact an Electrician on Monday, and arrange for them to come and check it out for you.

Check your Heat & Smoke Detectors

Smoke Detector Expiry Date

I know we only think about these when the annoying chirping starts as the battery starts to fail. That generally happens in the winter, when the temperature drops in the middle of the night. Batteries struggle more in the cold weather.

Just press the Test Button on your Smoke Detector, and make sure that it goes off. If you have inter-connected Smoke Detectors, this should also set all the other Smoke Detectors of in the House.

While you’re up the ladder, just check the Expiry Date on the Smoke Detector. If it’s already long past. You need to replace them.

This is something you can probably do yourself. Check out our post on Smoke Detectors.

If your Smoke Detector is quite elderly, check our Safelincs Website, where you can find a list of compatible Smoke Detectors.

If you’re not sure, then call an electrician.

Check your Water Supply

Hopefully you know where your mains water supply turns off.

If you don’t, you’re not alone. However, you’re about to rectify that situation.

Check out our post, “How do I turn my water supply off?

Why am I asking you to do this?

If you have a sudden plumbing emergency, then knowing where your Stop Tap is, that it’s accessible and that it turns off is going to save you loads of money.

Over time, Stop Taps can seize up. You really don’t want to find that yours has done that, when there is water pouring out of something that shouldn’t be.

Take it from me, there is nothing like the sound of gushing water to stop your brain thinking clearly.

If you discover that the only way to turn your water supply off is outside on the pavement, you’re going to make sure that you have something helpful to lever the cover off the water stop tap easily accessible for future use.

If you come on our Essential Home Plumbing Course, we talk a lot about making sure you’re prepared for these eventualities.

Water damage is potentially very expensive. Insurance Companies really don’t like it.

So…..

Find Your Water Stop Tap
Turn it off. Make sure that it actually turns ALL the water OFF
Turn the Water back on again

TOP TIP

If your Water Stop Tap is an old BRASS TAP, open the tap fully, when you turn the water back on. Then turn the tap back a ¼ Turn.

This will give you some Wriggle room if your Stop Tap starts to seize up in the future.

If you’re in Bristol, and you’re struggling to turn your Stop Tap off, check out Bristol Water’s Website. They have lots of helpful information and support.

If you live outside Bristol, check out your own Water Supplier. If you’re lucky they might be one the helpfl ones

And finally……

Check your Carbon Monoxide Detector

This is, sadly, a very timely reminder of just how important these are.

You can’t see or smell Carbon Monoxide. It will kill you very quickly.

If you have a Gas or Oil Boiler, or a Solid Fuel stove, then you should have a working Carbon Monoxide Detector somewhere near by. Often this is just “hanging about nearby” and not actually fixed down. In this case it can be easily mislaid. Make sure that it is not under a pile of magazines, or under the sofa. Its not going to work properly there

Please check that it works and that it is in date.

If you can’t find one, please go and buy yourself one AS SOON AS POSSIBLE.

You can buy a battery-operated Carbon-Monoxide Detector from any local DIY/hardware Store, or Supermarket.

No excuses on this one. Please do it. It will save your life!

If you don’t have a Carbon-monoxide Detector, that suggests that you may not have had your had your boiler serviced recently.

A Gas or Oil Engineer will check that you have one when they service your Boiler, and persuade you to get one.

Please get your boiler serviced every year. It will save your life

That’s it. You’re done. You have kept your Home, yourself and your family safe for the next six months

If you’re a parent, maybe this is a good exercise to involve your children in. The more peple who now to deal with an emergency, the better.

Consumer Units. What you need to know.

by Caroline Henn | Aug 24, 2024 | DIY Advice, DIY Electrical Advice, Practical DIY Advice

Consumer Units. What you need to know.

What is a Consumer Unit?

You might hear a Consumer Unit called different things: a Distribution Board, a Fuse Box—whatever. In the trade, it’s mostly called a Consumer Unit, or just CU for short, so let’s stick with that to keep it simple.

I’ll try not to bore you to sleep here, because this stuff matters, but I get it—electrics aren’t exactly thrilling.

No matter what you call it, a CU is what distributes electricity around your home. At its core, a CU should have a Main Switch, which lets you shut everything off if needed. You’ll also find various fuses or MCBs (Miniature Circuit Breakers) that control each circuit in your home.

If you’re lucky (and lots of people are these days), you might also have an RCD. If you’ve got two, great. If each circuit has its own, you’ve hit the jackpot.

Consumer Units come in all sorts of shapes, sizes, and safety levels. We’ll run through some of them below.

Keep reading…

1. Consumer Unit with Ceramic Rewireable Fuses

These are old-school and, honestly, look pretty cool (if you’re into that sort of thing). But they belong in a museum, not in your home. If you have one, it’s a good sign that you haven’t had certified electrical work done in ages, so call an electrician.

What it does:

This CU protects against circuit overloads—the fuse wire inside will break if there’s too much demand.

What it doesn’t do:

It won’t protect you from getting shocked or seriously hurt if there’s an earth fault.

What’s an Earth Fault?

It’s when an electrical current tries to escape to the ground (Earth). It is often caused by cutting a cable (e.g. by drilling into it) or a sudden appliance fault.

2. Consumer Unit with Rewireable Fuses

These are still fairly common and do the basics.

What it does:

It stops you from overloading circuits by tripping a fuse. You can reset it by pressing a button or flipping a switch—way easier than the older CUs.

What it doesn’t do:

Like the older ones, it won’t protect against electrocution from an earth fault. If you’ve got one, you might need an upgrade if you’re getting electrical work done, since newer regulations prioritise safety and require RCDs.

What is an RCD?

An RCD (Residual Current Device) is a nifty safety gadget that trips when it detects an earth fault. Potentially it will save your life.

At its most basic level, it constantly monitors the current in your house. If it detects an imbalance, it assumes that the current has gone into something it shouldn’t have – you. It should trip within milliseconds. This will save your life.

3. Consumer Unit with an RCD as Main Switch

This setup has an RCD that acts as the main switch. It’s better than nothing, but if there’s a fault on any circuit, the whole thing shuts down. Not ideal if you’re halfway through cooking dinner.

What it does:

It gives you some protection against earth faults, which is a step up from the older units.

4. Consumer Unit with Two/Dual RCDs

For a while, this was the go-to upgrade. These CUs usually have a plastic casing (newer ones are metal for better fire protection) and split your circuits into two groups, each with its own RCD.

What it does:
If one circuit trips an RCD, only half your house goes down. The other RCD keeps things running, which is more convenient but still a bit of a hassle.

You can find these CUs sold cheap in DIY stores because they don’t meet current regulations any more. Don’t be tempted—it’s not a bargain.

And you shouldn’t even be thinking abut carrying out that kind of electrical work anyway.

5. Consumer Unit with Individual RCBOs

This is what electricians install nowadays to meet the latest safety standards.

What it does:

This setup has a metal casing and a Main Switch, with each circuit controlled by its own RCBO (a combined fuse and RCD). If a fault occurs, only the affected circuit is shut down, so the rest of your home stays powered. It also likely includes a Surge Protection Device (SPD) to shield sensitive electronics like TVs and computers.

It’s more expensive but offers way better protection and convenience, especially in older homes where wiring can be dodgy.

Labelling

You’ll notice that labelling on CUs can be hit or miss. It’s really handy to know which fuse or RCBO controls which circuit, especially in an emergency.

If your CU isn’t well labelled, you can fix that yourself in about an hour. Grab some clean labels and a fine-tip pen. Go through each MCB one by one—switch it off and see what stops working. Jot down what each circuit controls and label accordingly.

Keep a record of this info near the CU; it could save you a lot of hassle (or even your life) later.
Plus, it’ll make things easier for any electrician working in your home.

If you have issues with your RCD not resetting after it has tripped, check out our handy post: Help, I have no Power

Electrical Safe Zones

by Caroline Henn | Aug 20, 2024 | DIY Electrical Advice, Practical DIY Advice

Electrical Safe Zones

Where is it SAFE to drill in a Wall?

This is a question we asked all the time on our DIY Courses.

Understandably, many people are worried about this. It stops them even picking up a drill.

So here’s what you need to know……..

There are 3 MAIN AREAS where you can definitely expect cables to have been run……

These areas are rather strangely called “SAFE ZONES” even though there is very little safe about them.

1. Where two walls meet

An area 150mm (6 inches) wide along the top of the wall where it meets the ceiling.

2. Horizontally either side of an Electrical Accessory

Basically this means in a straight line either side of a socket/switch/fused spur/light fitting etc. The line is the height of the socket/switch.

It runs all the way to the adjoining walls, or an obstacle, such as door or window.

Its important to note that an electrical accessory can be a lot of things, including a Consumer Unit (Fuse Box)

Its very safe to assume that there will be lots of cables running up, down and sideways around a Consumer Unit, so think very hard before you bang a nail in to put a lovely picture above the Consumer Unit.

3. Vertically above and below an Electrical Accessory

In a straight line above and below a socket/switch/fused spur/light fitting etc. The line is the width of the socket/switch/fitting. It runs all the way to the floor and ceiling.

Again the same applies to a Consumer Unit, so be very wary.

Very Important:

If the wall is less than 100mm (4 inches) thick, then the safe zones operate on both sides of the wall. Bear this in mind when you are drilling from a different room!

Very Very Important:

Electricians have very strict rules about where they can run their cables, and have to document if they haven’t been able to stick to the rules.

If you have had some electrical work carried out, it is worth checking the Electrical Certificate (if you were issued with one) as it may have some information about any deviations from the rules.

Electricians in the past did not have these rules. Cables could be, and were run in all sorts of odd places.

We have found cables run diagonally across walls, doing sudden 90 degree bends and all sorts, so beware.

If you suspect that someone in the past has carried out some electrical DIY work in your house, it is quite possible that they did not know about Safe Zones. They may have run cables wherever was most convenient for them, not always in the safest place.

If your current consumer unit does not have a functioning, healthy RCD, in fact, if you have any doubts at all,

TURN OFF THE CONSUMER UNIT BEFORE YOU DRILL

Where is it safe to drill in a Ceiling?

The rule that electricians should follow is to run the cables through the joists, as close to the centre of the joist as possible, at a depth of at least 50mm from the top and bottom of the joist. i.e 50mm from the ceiling/floor.

It is not always possible to follow this rule. There are often existing holes and notches in a joist. It is extremely likely that in the past, cables will have been run all over the place.

It is also quite possible that cables can be lying on top of plasterboard ceilings.

Because it is not always possible to run cables this way, the current electrical regulations allow cables to be run outside the zones, provided they are protected by an RCD..

If the wiring in your house is old and/or you have a Consumer Unit which does not have an RCD, then you should be even more cautious.

If you have any doubts…..

TURN OFF THE CONSUMER UNIT BEFORE YOU DRILL

Where is it safe to drill in a Floor?

As with ceilings, the rule that electricians should follow is to run the cables through the joists, as close to the centre of the joist as possible, at a depth of at least 50mm from the top and bottom of the joist. i.e 50mm from the floor.

It is not always possible to follow this rule. There are often existing holes and notches in joist, and it is extremely likely that in times past, cables have been run all over the place. It is also extremely likely that gas & water pipes have also been run under the floorboards through notches in the joists, (in which case, it is worth checking very very carefully first)

Because it is not always possible to run cables this way, the current electrical regulations allow cables to be run outside the zones, provided they are protected by an RCD.

If the wiring in your house is old and you have a Consumer Unit which does not have an RCD., then you should be even more cautious

If you have any doubts…..

TURN OFF THE CONSUMER UNIT BEFORE YOU DRILL

How do I cut Copper & Plastic Pipe?

by Caroline Henn | Aug 10, 2024 | DIY Course

How do I cut Copper & Plastic Pipe?

Cutting Copper & Plastic Pipe

How do I cut copper pipe? is a question we are asked early on in our DIY Plumbing Courses

As those of you who have been on our Essential Home Plumbing Course will know, cutting copper & plastic pipe is pretty straightforward, once you know the technique.

We thought it would help to make a quick video to remind you of a couple of important tips whencutting pipe, and the differnt tools you can use.

If you still feel a bit wary about doing this, or would like a bit more practice, why not sign up for one of our DIY Plumbing Courses, or check out our DIY Assist Service (we come to your home and support you with your DIY projects)

Essential Home Plumbing DIY Assist

Using Compression Joints

by Caroline Henn | Aug 10, 2024 | DIY Course

Compression Plumbing Fittings

As those of you who have been on our Essential Home Plumbing Course will know, Compression fittings can be a joy to use

They are great for DIY plumbing. We thought it would help to make a quick video to remind you of a couple of important tips when using the fittings.

If you still feel a bit wary about using them, or would like a bit more practice, why not sign up for one of our DIY Plumbing Courses, or check out our DIY Assist Service (we come to your home and support you with your DIY projects)

Essential Home Plumbing DIY Assist

Using Push-fit Fittings

by Caroline Henn | Jul 28, 2024 | DIY Course, DIY Plumbing, DIY Plumbing Advice

Speedfit Pushfit Plumbing Fittings

As those of you who have been on our Essential Home Plumbing Course will know, these Speedfit fittings are really straightforward to use.

They are great for DIY plumbing. We thought it would help to make a quick video to remind you of a couple of important tips when using the fittings.

Essential Home Plumbing DIY Assist

Choosing the Right Drill Bit

by Caroline Henn | Apr 23, 2024 | DIY Advice, Practical DIY Advice

The whole issue of choosing a drill bit feels a bit of minefield. It doesn’t need to be.

We cover it on lots of our courses, so that you feel confident choosing the right drill bit for the right material.

Drilling into Wood

If you are just drilling into wood, you have a couple of choices…..

High Speed Steel (HSS)

HSS Drill bits (High Speed Steel) are usually a gold colour or black.

The point should feel a bit sharp, but not painfully so.

These are actually designed for metal, and they are great at drilling into metal, but they are also great for everyday drilling into wood, and can be used for plastics, as well.

They’re a great all-rounder. I generally buy them in packs of 5 from Screwfix, (in my favourite sizes). This makes them pretty economical to use. When they go blunt, I mark them up, and hang onto them to mark drill holes on plaster & masonry walls.

If you’re using them in metal, then drill slowly and steadily. If you need to drill a large hold, start with a small hole, and gradually move up through the sizes. This gives you, the drill and the drill bits a fighting chance.

Brad Point Bits

You can also use a Brad Point Drill bit in wood.

These have a really sharp point, which hurts when you press it into your finger (no need to try it, just take my word for it). They can only be used on wood, and possibly plastic, but use them on metal or masonry, they will go blunt immediately.

Drilling into Walls

When you’re drilling into walls, you will need Masonry Drill bits.

These are often Silver-coloured or Gunmetal Grey.

They don’t feel sharp to the touch, but have what looks like a reinforced point. This is because they will be drilling into a hard material, and can be used with a Hammer Drill. Basically they use both blunt force trauma & a cutting action at the same time, so need to be very robust.

They’re not designed for using on soft materials like wood or plastic. If you do, you will probably just create an unpleasant burning smell. You can use them on plaster and plasterboard.

Drilling into Metal

Use HSS drill bits when drilling into metal (that’s what they’re designed for).
Drill slowly, and don’t try using a blunt drill bit.
For larger holes, start by drilling a small hole, then slowly increase the size of the drill bit until you reach the right size. Trust me, this may sound a bit slow and laborious, but it will be more successful more quickly.

Drilling into Plastic

For drilling into plastic, I generally use an HSS Drill bit (see how versatile they are). Plastic can get hot and melt, so make sure the drill bit is sharp, and don’t drill to fast.

Get more Practice…..

If you want to get some practice using Drills and choosing Drill bits, then why not try one of our Beginners DIY Courses. We will take you through the process slowly and clearly. You can have as much hands-on practice as you need …

Nailing it! DIY Beginners

DIY "Next Steps"

Drill Down into Drilling

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