Smoke Detectors in the Night

by Caroline Henn | Nov 15, 2024 | DIY Electrical Advice, Practical DIY Advice

Smoke Detectors in the Night

It’s that time of year again

Its no coincidence that Smoke & Heat Detectors start beeping at you in the wee small hours as the weather starts t0 get colder.

Batteries struggle in colder weather.

Many Mains-operated Smoke and Heat Detectors have a removable back-up battery (for those times when you have a power cut, and need to know that you’re still protected).

If the battery is running a bit low, its going to let you know by beeping at you intermittently. Annoyingly this often means that you’re not in the right place at the right time to work out which Smoke Detector is actually beeping at you.

What can you do?

Well, be prepared. This is likely to happen in the middle of the night, and it is going to drive you mad.

Buy some batteries, just in case

Most Smoke/Heat Detectors take a 9V PP3 Battery. Its a good idea to stock up on these in anticipation tht you’re going to need them

How do you change the battery?

Each make of Smoke Detector is slightly different.

Some twist off – you turn the body of the Smoke Detector Ant-clockwise and it drops down, giving you access to the battery chamber.

Others (Aico in particular) slide off. You need a to push a small flat-head screwdriver into a small hole to release the locking mechanism.

If you search online for your make of Smoke Detector, there will be instructions for accessing the battery and changing it.

Once you have changed the battery, press the TEST button, to make sure that its working. If you have Interconnected-Smoke Detectors, this should set all your smoke Detectors going.

Check the date

Yes, Smoke & Heat Detectors have an expiry date. This should be written on the side of the detector. Often they’ll tell you that they’re old, by beeping at you.

If your Smoke Detctectors have expired, please change them. With some makes, this is very much a DIY Job.

Check out our post “How Old are Your Smoke Detectors?” if you need more information about how to do this.

Another useful source of helpful information is the Safelincs Website. They sell all sorts of alarms, and have lots of useful How-to Guides on their website.

Please Look after your Smoke Detectors.

They could save your life.

4 Things you should do when you move into a New Home

by Caroline Henn | Oct 27, 2024 | DIY Advice, DIY Electrical Advice, DIY Plumbing Advice, Practical DIY Advice

4 Things you should do when you move into a New Home

A Little Housekeeping:

The Essential Stuff You Should Know

This may not be what you first think of when you move into a new home, but it could save you alot of money. Think of this as a “getting to know your home” exercise.

These are essental checks thatyou should make in your New Home. They could save you money and might even save your life. They will definitely stop a plumber from giving you that pitying look when you’re not sure where the water turns off.

Step 1: Stick the Kettle on

We all know nothing productive happens without a cuppa first. So, brew up and let’s crack on.

Step 2: Get Familiar with your Electricity Supply

You might think you know where the Consumer Unit (fuse box, for us mere mortals) is, but let’s be sure, shall we? Now, ask yourself these important questions:

Can I turn it off quickly if I need to?

Go on, try switching it off and back on again. If it’s buried at the back of a cupboard, do yourself a favour and keep the path clear – no one wants to dig through old paint cans or a mountain of camping gear in an emergency. Also, maybe avoid storing anything flammable in there? Just a thought.

Is it properly labelled?

Can you clearly tell which switch controls what, or does it feel more like a raffle? If it’s the latter, sorting that out should be a priority. If you’re not sure how to do this, check out our post on Consumer Units

Do you have an RCD?

If you’ve no idea what that is, have a look at Electrical Safety First, who explain what they are, and why they are an extremely good thing to have. It’s important.

If you do have one, test it! Press the “T” or “Test” Button and make sure it’s still doing its job. A little maintenance never hurts.

What type of Consumer Unit do you have?

This probably seems a bit of strange question, but its good to know the answer. You may have listened to your Solicitor’s advice and had an electrical survey carried out as part of the buying process. If you did, you should know a bit more about this, and should have a certificate to refer to. If you’re not sure what the certificate actually tells you, go back to the electrician who carried out the inspection for you. They can explain. Failing that, you can always contact us, and we can explain it to you.

If you didn’t have an electrical inspection, check out our post on Consumer Units – Know your Stuff. There’s a bit of useful information there, explaining what you’e looking.

Look for a Smoke & Heat Detectors

Hopefully your new Home has Smoke and Heat Detectors installed. If they do, please give them a quick Test, by pressing the TEST button. Check the Expiry date while you’re there.

If you can’t find any Smoke/Heat Detectors, or they are past their expiry date, please make getting new ones installed a priority.

Check out our post on Smoke Detector Safety, if you need more information

And lastly……..Take a Meter Reading

You don’t want to be paying for the last occupants’ Electricity, so take a Meter reading and submit it to your supplier. Ideally, take a photo of the reading, so that you have a Time & Date Stamp to refer back to.

Step 3: Discover where your Water Supply turns off

You’d be surprised how many people have no clue how to turn off their water. In fact, a lot of people who come on our DIY courses haven’t a clue either. I get it – it’s not something you think about until water’s gushing from somewhere it really shouldn’t be. But trust me, you don’t want to be on a frantic treasure hunt while the insurance claim’s ticking up.

1. Start Outside – Look for the Pavement cover

You’ll likely find a small cover near your front gate – that’s where the external stopcock hides. If you live in a flat, identifying which one’s yours can be a bit of a guessing game. Turning them off one by one works, but it might lead to some awkward neighbourly encounters (especially if they’re mid-shower).

It should look something like this. It might even have “Water” written on it:

Old Style Metal Cover

Use a Flathead Screwdriver to flip the Top up

Modern Plastic Cover

Use a Flathead Screwdriver to flip the Cover up

Annoying "Turn" Cover

Don’t be fooled. This Cover turns anti-clockwise to open. Badly thought-out design, which isn’t installed any longer. Try twisting it, it might come up. If not contact your Water Supplier and get them to replace it.

Metal Cover Stuck Down

Not uncommon if the Pavement has been resurfaced. Get it unstuck now, before you have an emergency, and can’t get the cover up.

Take a Meter Reading

If you find it, and it has a meter, take a meter reading. Again, I would take a photo, just for posterity.

Its also worth double-checking that it doesn’t keep running when you’ve turned the supply off. If it does, then you may be paying for someone else’s supply. Rare, but not impossible

2. Check Indoors

The usual suspects are under the kitchen sink or in a utility room, but I’ve come across them in all sorts of weird places – under floorboards, hidden in random cupboards. Start with the obvious and work your way to the downright bizarre.

Check out our other post on Finding Your Stop Tap

3. Still Can’t Find It?

Ask your new neighbours – they might have the same setup and could save you some time. If that doesn’t work, contact your water supplier – they might have a record of it. If you’re still out of luck, put it on your to-do list and get a plumber involved. They can install one in a more sensible spot.

Step 4: Gas or Oil - Find the OFF Switch

Mains Gas

Your gas meter will likely be near the front of the house, possibly in a little box outside. Make sure you can turn it off without too much faff. If it’s locked up, get yourself a meter box key – they’re cheap as chips at your local hardware store.

LPG or Oil

These tanks aren’t exactly discreet – you’ve probably tripped over them a few times already. Just double-check you know where the shut-off valve is, and maybe have a quick peek at security while you’re at it – oil theft’s a thing in the countryside.

Look for a Carbon Monoxide Detector

If you have a Gas or solid-fuel Boiler, or a multi-fuel stove, you also need to have a Carbon-Monoxide Detector.

If you can’t find one in your new home, please pop down to the nearest DIY/Hardware store/Supermarket & buy one NOW.

You may have no idea when the last service was carried out on these appliances.

You don’t want your first night in your new home to be your last. I know that sounds dramatic, but Carbon Monoxide is invisible. It doesn’t smell, and it can kill you very quickly.

Give yourself a Round of Applause

You’ve just ticked off three essential checks that most people ignore until disaster strikes. Sure, dealing with a crisis is a crash course in home maintenance, but wouldn’t you rather be prepared than panicked?

If you’re renting, your landlord really should have told you all this. If they didn’t, maybe give them a gentle nudge – it’s in their best interests too, after all!

Keep your Home ticking over

by Caroline Henn | Oct 24, 2024 | DIY Advice, DIY Electrical Advice, DIY Plumbing Advice, Practical DIY Advice

Keep your Home ticking over

Top Tips to help you keep your Home Safe.

Follow this simple guide for some essential Proactive Home Maintenance on the weekends that the Clocks change. Its a great time to carry out these simple jobs to keep your home safe.

Nothing too strenuous. You probably won’t even need any tools. Just a few checks which could save you a bit of money, and possibly, even your life.

I’m recommending that you carry out the following FOUR checks:

Give Your RCDs a bit of exercise
Check that your Smoke & Heat Detectors are working and in date
Check your Water Stop Tap & make sure it works
Check your Carbon Monoxide Detector & make sure it works

The reason I suggest this weekend, is because the clocks change.

It happens twice a year, which is the perfect interval for carrying out these checks.

On Sunday morning, you’re going to be scratching your head, trying to remember how to reset the clock on the Microwave and the Oven.

(How many of us give up with clock in the car, and decide that living 6 months in the future is infinitely preferable to wading through a huge car manual trying to find the tiny paragraph dedicated to the overly complicated clock setting?)

Anyway, I’m not really worried about the car. Its your Home, and in fact, you & your family, that matters this weekend. Keeping your Home safe is simple, and quick. Let me explain…..

Give your RCDs a bit of exercise

The clocks going back (or forwards in March) is the trigger. It happens twice a year, and that’s the recommended interval for exercising your RCDs.

PLEASE DO THIS TEST BEFORE YOU CHANGE THE TIME ON ALL YOUR CLOCKS

Who knew an RCD needed exercise?

Ok, I’m sure some of you are also asking what one of those is. If you’ve never heard of them, then please check out our useful post on Tripping RCDs.

You can find out what they do, why they’re not only a good idea, but actually essential for keeping you safe. You’ll even learn what to do if they start tripping.

All you need to do, is press the little TEST or (T) button on the RCD, and it will switch off. (The lever will drop down) This will turn off the power to a number of circuits.

Just reset the RCD by pushing the lever back up (Some Consumer Units need you to push the lever down a bit further, before you push it up).

Some of you may have a nice modern Consumer Unit, where each circuit is protected by its own RCD. These are called RCBOs. The same principle for these. Just press the TEST button, turn the circuit off, and then turn it back on.

That’s all you need to do.

Old Style RCCB

Press the button. Turn the lever back up to reset.

RCD

Press the black button. The lever will drop. Press the level back up to reset.

RCCB

Press the black “T” button. The lever will drop. Press the level back up to reset.

Newer RCBO

Press the GREY Test button. The lever will drop. Press the level back up to reset.

Why am I asking you to do this?

RCDs (or RCBOs) constantly monitor your electrical installation. Their job is to switch everything off in the event of a fault. You need them to be in tip top condition, so that they do this as quickly as possible, and save your life.

What if my RCD won’t switch off?

If this happens, then your RCD is not doing its job properly. It proves how important it is to carry out this test.

I recommend that you contact an Electrician on Monday, and arrange for them to come and check it out for you.

Check your Heat & Smoke Detectors

Smoke Detector Expiry Date

I know we only think about these when the annoying chirping starts as the battery starts to fail. That generally happens in the winter, when the temperature drops in the middle of the night. Batteries struggle more in the cold weather.

Just press the Test Button on your Smoke Detector, and make sure that it goes off. If you have inter-connected Smoke Detectors, this should also set all the other Smoke Detectors of in the House.

While you’re up the ladder, just check the Expiry Date on the Smoke Detector. If it’s already long past. You need to replace them.

This is something you can probably do yourself. Check out our post on Smoke Detectors.

If your Smoke Detector is quite elderly, check our Safelincs Website, where you can find a list of compatible Smoke Detectors.

If you’re not sure, then call an electrician.

Check your Water Supply

Hopefully you know where your mains water supply turns off.

If you don’t, you’re not alone. However, you’re about to rectify that situation.

Check out our post, “How do I turn my water supply off?

Why am I asking you to do this?

If you have a sudden plumbing emergency, then knowing where your Stop Tap is, that it’s accessible and that it turns off is going to save you loads of money.

Over time, Stop Taps can seize up. You really don’t want to find that yours has done that, when there is water pouring out of something that shouldn’t be.

Take it from me, there is nothing like the sound of gushing water to stop your brain thinking clearly.

If you discover that the only way to turn your water supply off is outside on the pavement, you’re going to make sure that you have something helpful to lever the cover off the water stop tap easily accessible for future use.

If you come on our Essential Home Plumbing Course, we talk a lot about making sure you’re prepared for these eventualities.

Water damage is potentially very expensive. Insurance Companies really don’t like it.

So…..

Find Your Water Stop Tap
Turn it off. Make sure that it actually turns ALL the water OFF
Turn the Water back on again

TOP TIP

If your Water Stop Tap is an old BRASS TAP, open the tap fully, when you turn the water back on. Then turn the tap back a ¼ Turn.

This will give you some Wriggle room if your Stop Tap starts to seize up in the future.

If you’re in Bristol, and you’re struggling to turn your Stop Tap off, check out Bristol Water’s Website. They have lots of helpful information and support.

If you live outside Bristol, check out your own Water Supplier. If you’re lucky they might be one the helpfl ones

And finally……

Check your Carbon Monoxide Detector

This is, sadly, a very timely reminder of just how important these are.

You can’t see or smell Carbon Monoxide. It will kill you very quickly.

If you have a Gas or Oil Boiler, or a Solid Fuel stove, then you should have a working Carbon Monoxide Detector somewhere near by. Often this is just “hanging about nearby” and not actually fixed down. In this case it can be easily mislaid. Make sure that it is not under a pile of magazines, or under the sofa. Its not going to work properly there

Please check that it works and that it is in date.

If you can’t find one, please go and buy yourself one AS SOON AS POSSIBLE.

You can buy a battery-operated Carbon-Monoxide Detector from any local DIY/hardware Store, or Supermarket.

No excuses on this one. Please do it. It will save your life!

If you don’t have a Carbon-monoxide Detector, that suggests that you may not have had your had your boiler serviced recently.

A Gas or Oil Engineer will check that you have one when they service your Boiler, and persuade you to get one.

Please get your boiler serviced every year. It will save your life

That’s it. You’re done. You have kept your Home, yourself and your family safe for the next six months

If you’re a parent, maybe this is a good exercise to involve your children in. The more peple who now to deal with an emergency, the better.

Consumer Units. What you need to know.

by Caroline Henn | Aug 24, 2024 | DIY Advice, DIY Electrical Advice, Practical DIY Advice

Consumer Units. What you need to know.

What is a Consumer Unit?

You might hear a Consumer Unit called different things: a Distribution Board, a Fuse Box—whatever. In the trade, it’s mostly called a Consumer Unit, or just CU for short, so let’s stick with that to keep it simple.

I’ll try not to bore you to sleep here, because this stuff matters, but I get it—electrics aren’t exactly thrilling.

No matter what you call it, a CU is what distributes electricity around your home. At its core, a CU should have a Main Switch, which lets you shut everything off if needed. You’ll also find various fuses or MCBs (Miniature Circuit Breakers) that control each circuit in your home.

If you’re lucky (and lots of people are these days), you might also have an RCD. If you’ve got two, great. If each circuit has its own, you’ve hit the jackpot.

Consumer Units come in all sorts of shapes, sizes, and safety levels. We’ll run through some of them below.

Keep reading…

1. Consumer Unit with Ceramic Rewireable Fuses

These are old-school and, honestly, look pretty cool (if you’re into that sort of thing). But they belong in a museum, not in your home. If you have one, it’s a good sign that you haven’t had certified electrical work done in ages, so call an electrician.

What it does:

This CU protects against circuit overloads—the fuse wire inside will break if there’s too much demand.

What it doesn’t do:

It won’t protect you from getting shocked or seriously hurt if there’s an earth fault.

What’s an Earth Fault?

It’s when an electrical current tries to escape to the ground (Earth). It is often caused by cutting a cable (e.g. by drilling into it) or a sudden appliance fault.

2. Consumer Unit with Rewireable Fuses

These are still fairly common and do the basics.

What it does:

It stops you from overloading circuits by tripping a fuse. You can reset it by pressing a button or flipping a switch—way easier than the older CUs.

What it doesn’t do:

Like the older ones, it won’t protect against electrocution from an earth fault. If you’ve got one, you might need an upgrade if you’re getting electrical work done, since newer regulations prioritise safety and require RCDs.

What is an RCD?

An RCD (Residual Current Device) is a nifty safety gadget that trips when it detects an earth fault. Potentially it will save your life.

At its most basic level, it constantly monitors the current in your house. If it detects an imbalance, it assumes that the current has gone into something it shouldn’t have – you. It should trip within milliseconds. This will save your life.

3. Consumer Unit with an RCD as Main Switch

This setup has an RCD that acts as the main switch. It’s better than nothing, but if there’s a fault on any circuit, the whole thing shuts down. Not ideal if you’re halfway through cooking dinner.

What it does:

It gives you some protection against earth faults, which is a step up from the older units.

4. Consumer Unit with Two/Dual RCDs

For a while, this was the go-to upgrade. These CUs usually have a plastic casing (newer ones are metal for better fire protection) and split your circuits into two groups, each with its own RCD.

What it does:
If one circuit trips an RCD, only half your house goes down. The other RCD keeps things running, which is more convenient but still a bit of a hassle.

You can find these CUs sold cheap in DIY stores because they don’t meet current regulations any more. Don’t be tempted—it’s not a bargain.

And you shouldn’t even be thinking abut carrying out that kind of electrical work anyway.

5. Consumer Unit with Individual RCBOs

This is what electricians install nowadays to meet the latest safety standards.

What it does:

This setup has a metal casing and a Main Switch, with each circuit controlled by its own RCBO (a combined fuse and RCD). If a fault occurs, only the affected circuit is shut down, so the rest of your home stays powered. It also likely includes a Surge Protection Device (SPD) to shield sensitive electronics like TVs and computers.

It’s more expensive but offers way better protection and convenience, especially in older homes where wiring can be dodgy.

Labelling

You’ll notice that labelling on CUs can be hit or miss. It’s really handy to know which fuse or RCBO controls which circuit, especially in an emergency.

If your CU isn’t well labelled, you can fix that yourself in about an hour. Grab some clean labels and a fine-tip pen. Go through each MCB one by one—switch it off and see what stops working. Jot down what each circuit controls and label accordingly.

Keep a record of this info near the CU; it could save you a lot of hassle (or even your life) later.
Plus, it’ll make things easier for any electrician working in your home.

If you have issues with your RCD not resetting after it has tripped, check out our handy post: Help, I have no Power

Electrical Safe Zones

by Caroline Henn | Aug 20, 2024 | DIY Advice, DIY Electrical Advice, Practical DIY Advice

Electrical Safe Zones

Where is it SAFE to drill in a Wall?

“Where is it safe to drill?” is a question we asked all the time on our DIY Courses. Understandably, many people are worried about this. It stops them even picking up a drill.

So here’s what you need to know……..

There are 3 MAIN AREAS where you can definitely expect cables to have been run……

These areas are rather strangely called “SAFE ZONES” even though there is very little safe about them.

1. Where two walls meet

An area 150mm (6 inches) wide along the top of the wall where it meets the ceiling.

2. Horizontally either side of an Electrical Accessory

Basically this means in a straight line either side of a socket/switch/fused spur/light fitting etc. The line is the height of the socket/switch.

It runs all the way to the adjoining walls, or an obstacle, such as door or window.

Its important to note that an electrical accessory can be a lot of things, including a Consumer Unit (Fuse Box)

Its very safe to assume that there will be lots of cables running up, down and sideways around a Consumer Unit, so think very hard before you bang a nail in to put a lovely picture above the Consumer Unit.

3. Vertically above and below an Electrical Accessory

In a straight line above and below a socket/switch/fused spur/light fitting etc. The line is the width of the socket/switch/fitting. It runs all the way to the floor and ceiling.

Again the same applies to a Consumer Unit, so be very wary.

Very Important:

If the wall is less than 100mm (4 inches) thick, then the safe zones operate on both sides of the wall. Bear this in mind when you are drilling from a different room!

Very Very Important:

Electricians have very strict rules about where they can run their cables, and have to document if they haven’t been able to stick to the rules.

If you have had some electrical work carried out, it is worth checking the Electrical Certificate (if you were issued with one) as it may have some information about any deviations from the rules.

Electricians in the past did not have these rules. Cables could be, and were run in all sorts of odd places.

We have found cables run diagonally across walls, doing sudden 90 degree bends and all sorts, so beware.

If you suspect that someone in the past has carried out some electrical DIY work in your house, it is quite possible that they did not know about Safe Zones. They may have run cables wherever was most convenient for them, not always in the safest place.

If your current consumer unit does not have a functioning, healthy RCD, in fact, if you have any doubts at all,

TURN OFF THE CONSUMER UNIT BEFORE YOU DRILL

Where is it safe to drill in a Ceiling?

The rule that electricians should follow is to run the cables through the joists, as close to the centre of the joist as possible, at a depth of at least 50mm from the top and bottom of the joist. i.e 50mm from the ceiling/floor.

It is not always possible to follow this rule. There are often existing holes and notches in a joist. It is extremely likely that in the past, cables will have been run all over the place.

It is also quite possible that cables can be lying on top of plasterboard ceilings.

Because it is not always possible to run cables this way, the current electrical regulations allow cables to be run outside the zones, provided they are protected by an RCD..

If the wiring in your house is old and/or you have a Consumer Unit which does not have an RCD, then you should be even more cautious.

If you have any doubts…..

TURN OFF THE CONSUMER UNIT BEFORE YOU DRILL

Where is it safe to drill in a Floor?

As with ceilings, the rule that electricians should follow is to run the cables through the joists, as close to the centre of the joist as possible, at a depth of at least 50mm from the top and bottom of the joist. i.e 50mm from the floor.

It is not always possible to follow this rule. There are often existing holes and notches in joist, and it is extremely likely that in times past, cables have been run all over the place. It is also extremely likely that gas & water pipes have also been run under the floorboards through notches in the joists, (in which case, it is worth checking very very carefully first)

Because it is not always possible to run cables this way, the current electrical regulations allow cables to be run outside the zones, provided they are protected by an RCD.

If the wiring in your house is old and you have a Consumer Unit which does not have an RCD., then you should be even more cautious

If you have any doubts…..

TURN OFF THE CONSUMER UNIT BEFORE YOU DRILL

Electric Showers – what you need to know

by Caroline Henn | Feb 2, 2024 | DIY Electrical Advice, Practical DIY Advice

Electric Showers – what you need to know

What is an Electric Shower?

Unlike traditional “Mixer” showers, electric showers only require a cold water supply, which they heat up instantly as you stand beneath the spray.

With a safety cut-out feature, you can enjoy your shower without worrying about getting scalded if the water supply suddenly drops.

Why choose an Electric shower?

Sometimes, a balanced supply of hot and cold water from a boiler may not be available in your home. In such cases, an electric shower is the ideal solution. It ensures that you always have a refreshing shower, regardless of the water pressure in your house.

So how do Electric Showers work?

Electric Showers are directly connected to your cold mains supply and contain a heating element that warms up the water as it flows through, a bit like a sophisticated kettle.

The faster the water flow, the more power the shower needs to heat the water up. This is why it’s essential to have a properly installed electric shower with the correct cable size to prevent overheating and potential hazards.

This is where one of the main safety issues surrounding Electric Showers becomes apparent.

Fitting an Electric Shower is NOT a DIY project

We’re going to keep saying this….

Who should fit an Electric Shower?

*When it comes to fitting an electric shower, it’s crucial to seek the expertise of an Electrically Competent Person*.

(*This is actually a defined term, which means someone who has sufficient knowledge and training to comply with Part P of the Building Regulations.)

With their knowledge and training in compliance with building regulations, they will ensure a safe and efficient installation.

Should an electric shower be installed by a Plumber, an Electrician or maybe a Handyperson?

There’s no easy answer. Water and Electricity mixed together can be very dangerous. Because of this, Bathrooms are regarded as “Special Locations” for electrical work. What we can definitively say, is that an electric shower must be installed by an Electrically Competent Person.

Fitting an Electric Shower is NOT a DIY Project

….nor is it a job for an unqualified Handyperson….

What size Electric Shower should I choose?

So, there you are shopping in one of those lovely DIY stores, where there is a range of shiny new electric showers on display.

You need to replace your shower; its got a bit drippy, is looking a bit limescaly, or has gone that lovely yellow-plastic colour through age.

Time for an upgrade!

So many different sizes to choose though. Surely the more powerful the shower, the better showering experience you’re going to have.

This is where the DIYer can come seriously unstuck & put themselves & others in Danger

However the choice may not be down to you. The decision will be dictated by several things:

The size & quality of the cable supplying the electric shower
The length of the Cable run from your Consumer Unit (Fuse box)
The material through which the Cable runs.
(I have seen cables melted because they are running through newly-installed Loft Insulation)

These are all questions which an Electrically Competent Person is going to consider, before advising you which size shower to choose.

You may not even know that you should be asking these questions, let alone how to find out the answers.

The most powerful electric shower will generally need a very big cable. This will increase in size, as the length of the cable increases.

As a rule of thumb, Big Cables are much more expensive than smaller Cables!

If your existing electric shower has been there for a long time, the chances are that it may only be supplied by relatively small cable, which will not cope with the demands of a more powerful shower. You may need a whole new, much larger cable, to be installed.

Installing new cables can be disruptive, messy & expensive.

Does the person installing your Electric Shower know this?

The Dangers of Loft Insulation

Loft Insulation is generally a very good thing. We should all be making sure that we insulate our lofts. It will keep heat in, make our houses more thermally efficient and save us money.

However, electrical cable and insulation need to be thought about carefully. If you cover all the electrical cables in your loft with insulation, this may affect the cable’s ability to carry current.

When the cables were originally installed, there may not have been very much insulation in your loft, so the cables were fine.

Now that your loft has 150 or 200mm of lovely warm insulation lying over the top of it, the cable is no longer able to do its job properly.

Cables supplying Showers are particularly at risk. On several ocasions I have found shower cables in lofts showing signs that they are melting. Even the cable clips have begun to melt.

This is very dangerous. I have spoken to people who install insulation in loft spaces for a living, who were unaware that this is an issue that they should be aware of, and taking into account during their insualtion.

I’m sure many of us have seen the Loft Insulation Installations carried out “under grant” where it looks as though the loft insulation was installed, by throwing it liberally about the loft from the loft hatch. I’m prettty confident that the well-being of any cables being covered by the loft inulation was not a consideration.

Important Messages

Seek advice from an Electrically Competent Person before replacing an electric shower.
Make sure you choose the correct person to install an Electric Shower. If you ask for a quote from an Electrically Competent Person, and then find someone who "can do it cheaper," please make sure that they are competent.
If you are insulating your loft, please make sure that you are not covering up cables and creating a potential fire-hazard
Installing an Electric Shower is NOT A DIY PROJECT

Fitting an Electric Shower is NOT a DIY Project

How old are your Smoke Detectors?

by Caroline Henn | Jan 20, 2024 | DIY Electrical Advice

How old are your Smoke Detectors?

Which Birthday will your Smoke Detectors be celebrating this year?

Are your Smoke Detectors still looking gleaming white?

If your Smoke Detectors are beginning to take on that yellowing plastic look, it may be that they are approaching, or possibly have already celebrated, their 10th Birthday without you even noticing.

I know, I know, another one of those things that you need to check. There seem to be so many these days.

Anyway, back to the Smoke Detectors….

Generally Smoke & Heat Detectors are regarded as a “Good thing.”

You may not feel quite so well-disposed towards them when they start chirruping at you at 3 o’clock in the morning to tell you that their back-up battery is flat, but when they are just getting on with their job, they’re definitely a good thing.

In fact they’re such a good thing, that we electricians are required to install them a lot more often these days.

Very importantly, Landlords are required to make sure that they are installed and working properly in their rental properties.

This is probably something to do with the fact that they save lives.

Inter-connected Smoke Detectors

Nowadays, we encourage people to install inter-connected mains-operated detectors with a back-up battery.

Inter-connected means that if one detector is activated, the rest of them all join in and make sure that there’s absolutely no way that you can sleep through the issue.

Mains-operated means that they aren’t going to stop working, just because the battery has gone flat, or you’ve removed the battery in a rage in the middle of the night, and forgotten to put it back.

Why replace Smoke detectors?

Unfortunately, like a lot of good things, Smoke Detectors have a shelf life. In the case of Smoke & Heat Detectors, this is about 10 years, but can be as low as 7 years. They should have a date of manufacture and Expiry Date somewhere nice and visible.

It may be time to get a step ladder out just to check.

If the expiry date is in the past, then it’s time to replace your Smoke & Heat Detectors.

Many of the quality makes of Smoke & Heat Detectors allow you to retro-fit with very little effort.

Basically you can leave the base connected in the ceiling, so don’t have to touch the wiring, then slide or twist the detector off the base, and replace it with a new one.

Job done! No electrician required.

Why are there different types of Detector?

It can be a bit confusing, but here’s a quick summary….

Heat Detectors

Heat Detectors are designed to go in your Kitchen, Garage, or dusty areas. As the name suggests, they wil be triggered by an increase in heat, approx 55 degrees. They are not going to be set off by you burning the toast, or your Sunday Roast. They are less susceptible to dust than Optical and Ionisation Smoke Detectors.

Ionisation Smoke Detectors

Ionisation Smoke Detectors are the old style smoke detectors. They are being phased out and replaced by Optical Smoke Detectors. They are most sensitive, and are a bit more prone to false alarms.

Optical Smoke Detectors

Optical Smoke detectors are replacing the old Ionisation Smoke Detectors.

Ideally they should be installed in Bedrooms, Hallways, Living spaces (except Kitchens).

They will detect smouldering smoke, but are sensitive to dust, so if you need to install a detector in a dusty area, then you should use a Heat Detector instead.

Replacing old Smoke Detectors

Some makes and models of smoke detector have stopped being manufactured. This can be annoying if you want to leave the base in position and just replace the detector itself, without calling in an electrician.
Safelincs have a useful guide to compatible makes and models on their website.
Not all makes and models are replaceable, but some are, so its worth checking, just in case. It could save you some money.

Upgrading yor Smoke Detectors

If you need to upgrade your Mains-operated Smoke detectors, you will need to call an electrician in.

We often fit AICO Detectors, because AICO make it easy for customers to retrofit detectors in the future. They also make it easier to add additional Detectors in areas where it would be awkward or expensive to run new wiring.

Basically they allow you to create hybrid systems with mains and battery-operated detectors talking to each other.

They also have a range of Smart Detectors for those of us who like our doorbells and washing machines to chat to us on our mobile phones while we’re away from home. An exciting world of conversations with your smoke detectors awaits you, if you decide to go down that route.

Anyway, back to the point. Please check your Smoke Detectors and make sure that they are still in date. If they aren’t, please do something about it. Don’t leave it until it’s too late.

At the risk of sounding a bit doom laden, anyone who charges a battery in their home, particularly a larger battery for a bike or scooter, has the potential for an issue, so please…

MAKE SURE YOU ARE PROTECTED

Help, I have no Power….

by Caroline Henn | Jul 4, 2023 | DIY Electrical Advice, Practical DIY Advice

Help, I have no Power….

I can’t promise that this is going to be an exciting read. I’ll do my best, but, unless you’re a complete electrical nerd, this is probably not going to really light your fire.

Let’s be honest, you’re probably only reading this because you’re in a panic and can’t reset your RCD, so as long as I help you get that sorted, I’ve done my job.

However, it may get you out of a tight spot in an emergency, and save you a lot of money. Faced with a sudden loss of power, many people, understandably, panic and call out an electrician, when, with a little knowledge & patience, they can sort the issue themselves.

What is an RCD?

It helps you know why we have an RCD, or Residual Current Device. Its a safety device which is now, fortunately, pretty common in most domestic electrical supplies.

If you’re not sure whether you have one, it should look something like the images below

There will usually be a small reset button on it, sometimes red, yellow, blue or black – basically down to manufacturer’s preference. This button should have TEST written somewhere near it. As the name suggests, this button allows you to test that the RCD trips.

It will either have RCD, RCCB or RCBO written on it.

RCD

The black Test button is at the TOP of the RCD

RCBO

The test button is grey, just above the lever

RCCB

Note the Black Tests button with a “T” on it.

RCCB-Main Switch

RCCB being used as a Standalone Main Switch

How does an RCD work?

An RCD measures the current in the circuits that it controls. It measures the current leaving and returning. If there is an imbalance, it assumes that some of the current has leaked out and is causing a danger. (Leaking current could be going into an object that you may touch, such as metallic light fitting, or into you, because you are laready touching it). This is generally regarded as a very bad thing.

The current is immediately (or, at least within a few milliseconds) switched off and there is no longer any power.

This bascially means that you won’t be electrocuted, and is therefore a very good thing.

How do I reset an RCD?

RCDs are designed to be reset. Sometimes they trip for no apparent reason. They can be tripped by a lightbulb blowing. It isn’t always an indication of a problem………

Nerd alert….

Just as an aside that you can happily skip until another day…. the number of electronic pieces of equipment that we have in our houses these days is creating a problem for older style RCDs. Electronic equipment often leaks a bit more current to earth than these RCDs, can deal with, so we are likely to get more nuisance RCD tripping than we used to. This is being addressed by the introduction of new types of RCD that can identify this kind of earth leakage. These are now being installed in new installations as a matter of course. However, if you have an older type of consumer unit, and you are getting regular RCD tripping, it may be time to call in an electrician to help you deal with it).

………Anyway, back to the real reason we’re here…..

If the lever on an RCD is in the DOWN position, it is OFF. To reset it, the lever simply needs to be pushed back UP.

Useful tip: For some RCDs, it is necessary to push the lever fully downwards before it will let you push it back UP and reset.

In many cases, this will be fine. The RCD will reset and all will be well. You can now stop reading, pat yourself on the back & go and put the kettle on.

My RCD won’t reset. What should I do?

When I am called to a house where an RCD keeps tripping, this is the first question I ask:

What happened just before the RCD Tripped?

It probably seems obvious, but when you’re dealing with what seems like an emergency, we often miss the obvious.

Let’s face it. RCDs don’t trip when you have time to deal with them, they choose the most inopportune moments, such as when you’re about to put the turkey in the oven on Christmas Day, or when the kids are filthy dirty from some sporting activity, and need to get into the bath. The pressure is on, and you don’t have time to think.

If you were in the house when the RCD tripped, ask yourself what happened just before the RCD tripped. If you had just turned the Kettle on, or switched on the Iron or (common culprit) Hair-straighteners, there’s a possibility that this may be the cause of the problem.

Do the obvious thing, and fully unplug the Kettle/Iron/Hair-straighteners and reset the RCD. (i.e switch off and remove the plug from the socket).

If the RCD resets and stays reset, then you have probably found your culprit.

The problem appliance can be dealt with in slower time. You have power, so you can pat yourself on the back, stick the kettle on (unless its the culprit) & move on.

The next question you might want to ask yourself is….

Did I just drill through a cable?

If you just drilled through a wall and the RCD tripped, there may be a strong link between the two events. It is quite possible that you may have drilled through, or otherwise damaged a cable. If you didn’t check the positions of cables prior to drilling, you have just learnt a useful, but possibly quite expensive lesson. Its time to call in an electrician to repair the damaged cable as soon as possible. It is quite possible that the RCD will not reset until the damage has been repaired.

Next time you get the drill out, it would be worth checking out one of our other posts on the inappropriately named Electrical Safe Zones. Contrary to their name, these are areas where it is actually dangerous to drill, as they could legitimately hide cables.

If you look at the Electrical Safe Zones. post and realise that you did, in fact, drill straight into one of these safe zones, please call an electrician as soon as possible. There may be some brown scorch marks, or even a bit of smoke coming out of the hole – all signs that things are not well.

How do I identify the cause of the fault?

If neither of these scenarios applies and the RCD seems to have tripped for no reason at all, there is a straightforward procedure to follow, which in most cases will identify where the problem lies.

Stage 1:

Your Consumer Unit should be properly labelled. The RCD will be labelled and the fuses (or MCBs) controlled by it, also labelled. Hopefully it will look something like this:

Make a note of the names of the circuits which are covered by the RCD.

Firstly switch off the RCD and all the fuses (MCBs) controlled by it. All the levers should be pointing DOWN

In this case, lets imagine that RCD 2 is the problem. The circuits covered by RCD 2 are:

1. Downstairs Sockets

2. Water Heater (Probably the Boiler)

3. Upstairs Lights

Turn off all those fuses (Lever pointing DOWN). Then unplug everything that is plugged into the Downstairs Sockets.

If the Boiler is also not working, and you don’t have an immersion heater in your house, it is quite likely that the “Water Heater” circuit applies to the Boiler. If it is plugged in, pull the plug out. If it has a fused spur, then pull the fuse out of the fuse holder on the fused spur.

Stage 2:

Now, we need to identify which circuit is causing the problems. Start with the Downstairs Sockets.

First turn on the fuse (MCB) for the downstairs sockets, and see if the RCD also stays on. If it doesn’t stay on, check that you have definitely unplugged everything on that circuit.

Might there be something plugged in in a cupboard that you had forgotten about?
Do you have an aerial booster plugged in, in the loft?
Is there an Outside Socket
Are there lights under the Kitchen cabinets, running from a fused Spur?

The list goes on…….. and on……

It is very easy to miss something at this stage, so you may have to really rack your brains. Cooker Hoods are an easy one to miss.

If you are pretty sure that everything has been unplugged and you still can’t reset the RCD, it is time to call an electrician. This scenario (which is pretty unlikely) would suggest that there may be a problem with the wiring or something on the circuit.

If the RCD remains on, then go round and plug in each of the appliances that you previously unplugged. Switch each one on. If at any stage, the RCD trips, you have found your culprit.

If the RCD remains on while you plug everything back in, it appears that the problem isn’t on this particular circuit.

If the RCD remains on, then go round and plug in each of the appliances that you previously unplugged. Switch each one on. If at any stage, the RCD trips, you have found your culprit.

If the RCD remains on while you plug everything back in, it appears that the problem isn’t on this particular circuit.

Move onto the next stage…….

Stage 3:

Move on to the next circuit and do the same thing.

In this case, it is the boiler circuit, so it will just be a case of putting the fuse back in and switching the boiler on.

If the RCD trips at this point, there could be an issue with the boiler. Take a look to see if there are any signs of water under the boiler. A leak from a boiler onto the controls is a common cause of this kind of problem. If you suspect that this is the case, you need to call a Gas Safe Registered Plumber.

Stage 4:

Finally turn on the third circuit. In this case, it is the Upstairs Lighting Circuit. To save time, you have left all the light bulbs in their fittings. If the RCD trips when you turn the fuse (MCB) for the lights back on, take all the lightbulbs out, just in case one of them is causing a problem, and switch the Fuse back on.

If the RCD stays on, put each light bulb back into its fitting in turn. For safety’s sake, make sure that you turn the fuse (MCB) off each time that you put a bulb in. Turn it on once the bulb is in position. If the RCD trips when you put one of the bulbs back in, then that will be your culprit.

By this stage, hopefully, you may have identified your culprit. However, if the RCD is still not resetting, or turns back on and continues to trip, then it is time to call out an electrician.

Don’t despair…..

You have already saved yourself some money. You have gone through a methodical series of tests to eliminate any obvious issues.

You can tell an electrician exactly what you have done and what the outcome was. This means that the electrician already has a lot of really useful information before they start looking themselves. Believe you me, that makes an electrician’s job an awful lot easier.

Under no circumstances should you start taking a look inside any electrical fixtures and fittings yourself. This is a very dangerous thing to do, if you don’t know what you’re doing. Let’s be honest, you probably wouldn’t know if you were looking at a problem anyway, so why put yourself at risk?

Plumbing issues are generally pretty easy to see – dripping water is pretty visible, & gives you an immediate clue about where to start looking.

Electrical issues are a lot more difficult to find. Electrical fault finding is very like detective work. Any clues that you, as the householder can give, will speed the process up, and ultimately save you money.