Consumer Units. What you need to know.

Consumer Units. What you need to know.

Consumer Units. What you need to know.

What is a Consumer Unit?

You might hear a Consumer Unit called different things: a Distribution Board, a Fuse Box—whatever. In the trade, it’s mostly called a Consumer Unit, or just CU for short, so let’s stick with that to keep it simple.

I’ll try not to bore you to sleep here, because this stuff matters, but I get it—electrics aren’t exactly thrilling.

No matter what you call it, a CU is what distributes electricity around your home. At its core, a CU should have a Main Switch, which lets you shut everything off if needed. You’ll also find various fuses or MCBs (Miniature Circuit Breakers) that control each circuit in your home.

If you’re lucky (and lots of people are these days), you might also have an RCD. If you’ve got two, great. If each circuit has its own, you’ve hit the jackpot.

Consumer Units come in all sorts of shapes, sizes, and safety levels. We’ll run through some of them below.

Keep reading…

1. Consumer Unit with Ceramic Rewireable Fuses

Consumer Unit with Individual RCBOs

These are old-school and, honestly, look pretty cool (if you’re into that sort of thing). But they belong in a museum, not in your home. If you have one, it’s a good sign that you haven’t had certified electrical work done in ages, so call an electrician.

What it does:

This CU protects against circuit overloads—the fuse wire inside will break if there’s too much demand.

What it doesn’t do:

It won’t protect you from getting shocked or seriously hurt if there’s an earth fault.

What’s an Earth Fault?

It’s when an electrical current tries to escape to the ground (Earth). It is often caused by cutting a cable (e.g. by drilling into it) or a sudden appliance fault.

2. Consumer Unit with Rewireable Fuses

Consumer Unit with Individual RCBOs

These are still fairly common and do the basics.

What it does:

It stops you from overloading circuits by tripping a fuse. You can reset it by pressing a button or flipping a switch—way easier than the older CUs.

What it doesn’t do:

Like the older ones, it won’t protect against electrocution from an earth fault. If you’ve got one, you might need an upgrade if you’re getting electrical work done, since newer regulations prioritise safety and require RCDs.

What is an RCD?

An RCD (Residual Current Device) is a nifty safety gadget that trips when it detects an earth fault. Potentially it will save your life.

At its most basic level, it constantly monitors the current in your house. If it detects an imbalance, it assumes that the current has gone into something it shouldn’t have  – you. It  should trip within milliseconds. This will save your life.

3. Consumer Unit with an RCD as Main Switch

Consumer Unit with Individual RCBOs

This setup has an RCD that acts as the main switch. It’s better than nothing, but if there’s a fault on any circuit, the whole thing shuts down. Not ideal if you’re halfway through cooking dinner.

What it does:

It gives you some protection against earth faults, which is a step up from the older units.

4. Consumer Unit with Two/Dual RCDs

Consumer Unit with Individual RCBOs

For a while, this was the go-to upgrade. These CUs usually have a plastic casing (newer ones are metal for better fire protection) and split your circuits into two groups, each with its own RCD.

What it does:
If one circuit trips an RCD, only half your house goes down. The other RCD keeps things running, which is more convenient but still a bit of a hassle.

You can find these CUs sold cheap in DIY stores because they don’t meet current regulations any more. Don’t be tempted—it’s not a bargain.

And you shouldn’t even be thinking abut carrying out that kind of electrical work anyway. 

5. Consumer Unit with Individual RCBOs

Consumer Unit with Individual RCBOs

This is what electricians install nowadays to meet the latest safety standards.

What it does:

This setup has a metal casing and a Main Switch, with each circuit controlled by its own RCBO (a combined fuse and RCD). If a fault occurs, only the affected circuit is shut down, so the rest of your home stays powered. It also likely includes a Surge Protection Device (SPD) to shield sensitive electronics like TVs and computers.

It’s more expensive but offers way better protection and convenience, especially in older homes where wiring can be dodgy.

Labelling

You’ll notice that labelling on CUs can be hit or miss. It’s really handy to know which fuse or RCBO controls which circuit, especially in an emergency.

If your CU isn’t well labelled, you can fix that yourself in about an hour. Grab some clean labels and a fine-tip pen. Go through each MCB one by one—switch it off and see what stops working. Jot down what each circuit controls and label accordingly.

Keep a record of this info near the CU; it could save you a lot of hassle (or even your life) later.
Plus, it’ll make things easier for any electrician working in your home.

If you have issues with your RCD not resetting after it has tripped, check out our handy post: Help, I have no Power

Choosing the Right Drill Bit

Choosing the Right Drill Bit

The whole issue of choosing a drill bit feels a bit of minefield. It doesn’t need to be.

We cover it on lots of our courses, so that you feel confident choosing the right drill bit for the right material.

Drilling into Wood

If you are just drilling into wood, you have a couple of choices…..

High Speed Steel (HSS)

HSS Drill bits

HSS Drill bits (High Speed Steel) are usually a gold colour or black.

The point should feel a bit sharp, but not painfully so. 

These are actually designed for metal, and they are great at drilling into metal, but they are also great for everyday drilling into wood, and can be used for plastics, as well.

They’re a great all-rounder. I generally buy them in packs of 5 from Screwfix, (in my favourite sizes). This makes them pretty economical to use. When they go blunt, I mark them up, and hang onto them to mark drill holes on plaster & masonry walls. 

If you’re using them in metal, then drill slowly and steadily. If you need to drill a large hold, start with a small hole, and gradually move up through the sizes. This gives you, the drill and the drill bits a fighting chance. 

 

Brad point Drill Bits

Brad Point Bits

You can also use a Brad Point Drill bit in wood. 

These have a really sharp point, which hurts when you press it into your finger (no need to try it, just take my word for it). They can only be used on wood, and possibly plastic, but use them on metal or masonry, they will go blunt immediately.

Image of Masonry Drill Bits

Drilling into Walls

When you’re drilling into walls, you will need Masonry Drill bits. 

These are often Silver-coloured or Gunmetal Grey. 

They don’t feel sharp to the touch, but have what looks like a reinforced point. This is because they will be drilling into a hard material, and can be used with a Hammer Drill. Basically they use both blunt force trauma & a cutting action at the same time, so need to be very robust. 

They’re not designed for using on soft materials like wood or plastic. If you do, you will probably just create an unpleasant burning smell. You can use them on plaster and plasterboard.

Drilling into Metal

Use HSS drill bits when drilling into metal  (that’s what they’re designed for).
Drill slowly, and don’t try using a blunt drill bit.
For larger holes, start by drilling a small hole, then slowly increase the size of the drill bit until you reach the right size.  Trust me, this may sound a bit slow and laborious, but it will be more successful more quickly.

Drilling into Plastic

For drilling into plastic, I generally use an HSS Drill bit (see how versatile they are). Plastic can get hot and melt, so make sure the drill bit is sharp, and don’t drill to fast.

Get more Practice…..

If you want to get some practice using Drills and choosing Drill bits, then why not try one of our Beginners DIY Courses. We will take you through the process slowly and clearly. You can have as much hands-on practice as you need …